The Three Most Important Lessons I’ve Learned When Using A Micro4/3 Camera System

An example of a Micro4/3 image, cropped, shot at ISO 12,800 and edited in DXO PhotoLab 6.
(click to enlarge)

I’ve owned and photographed with Micro4/3 cameras and lenses since 2013.  I’ve written a lot about using that system and posted many photos on this blog using that gear.  I am a big fan even though I own and use Fujifilm and Nikon gear as well.  In the future I won’t be selling my Micro4/3 gear as that is the system I will keep when I decided to ‘scale back’ my photography as I move through my 7th decade of life.  (Note: No one who has ever seen my  images, whether posted or printed, could tell the difference between the Micro4/3, APS-C or full frame photographs.  So there’s that.)

That said, when you photograph with Micro4/3 gear, you are already at a disadvantage to those who use larger formats.  First, the sensor is 1/2 the size of APS-C sensors and 1/4 the size of full frame sensors.  Second, you only have 20-25mp with which to work.  Others may have 36, 45 or even 61mp in their cameras.  So, to achieve the best outcome using this system, you can’t be sloppy in your photographic technique.  You are already behind the 8-ball even before you press the shutter so preparedness, practice and excellent technique are all necessary.  In other words, if you are lazy, you won’t get the best results.  But there is no reason to be discouraged.  Creating excellent photographs using Micro4/3 is certainly achievable.  Look at all of the pros out there who depend on their Micro4/3 kits to earn a living.  There are a lot more than you may think.

Also, with the advent of the new AI based plug-ins for digital noise control, sharpening as well as upsizing files, a lot of the advantages of larger sensors have been reduced or completely eliminated.  As I've written in the past, technology is the great equalizer.

Handheld.  ISO 400.  F/14 (click to enlarge)

To that end, here are the three lessons I’ve learned to achieve the best image quality as well as the most success when I go out to photograph with my Micro4/3 gear.

1. This is my most important tip.  Expose to the right as far as you can.  It does make a difference, even at base ISO.  Never, ever, ever put yourself in a position to have to move your exposure slider in Lightroom to the right, especially at higher ISOs.  If you do, you are degrading the quality of your image.  Mid and darker toned areas will gain digital noise quickly when you try to counteract your underexposure.  It is much better to overexpose your image without blowing out ‘important’ highlights and reduce its brightness than to have to lighten it.  This is critical.  Did I mention to never have to brighten your image in your editing software?  I thought I did but I want to re-emphasize it.

Just to emphasize this point and to state it in a different fashion, when you have to lighten your image in Lightroom and move the exposure slider to +1, +2, etc., you are effectively raising your ISO by one stop and two stops in this example.  So, if you have your camera's ISO set for ISO 1600 and then you have to move the exposure slider to +2, you have effectively raised your ISO to 6400.  You don't want to have to do that.

2. Learn every feature in your camera thoroughly by reading the user’s manual then practicing using them so you know their limitations.  You don’t want any surprises.  Actually using the features in real world situations and practicing with them will pay dividends for when you want to use them.  This applies to features you don’t think you’ll use because one day you will.  Turning on and using a feature only to return home and see that it didn't do what you thought it would do or you weren’t able to figure out how to use it when standing before a composition in which the feature will allow you to capture it perfectly is for losers.  Do the work.  Practice, practice, practice.  Take the time to learn your camera thoroughly.

600mm (FF equiv.); 1/2000th sec. @ f/4.5; ISO 400

3.  Learn your menu system forward and backward so you can instantly find every menu item, feature or setting you need find, especially when you may be rushed or in a hurry. Menu systems are very complicated because Micro4/3 cameras have so many features.  It’s about standing in the field unable to find and change a setting that you want to change or trying to turn on a feature but it’s grayed out and you are baffled as to why.  You find yourself in this situation because you didn’t learn where everything is and how everything works together in your menu system.  Learn it.

Bonus tip:  Learn how to really use your editing software.  The difference between an unedited or poorly edited image and an image that is edited well is night and day.  Ordinary very excellent.  You’ll never catch me sending out an unedited image (unless it is a test and the test requires unedited images) or a less than perfectly edited image.  Use your artistic skills to improve on what comes out of your camera.  You will be judged by your worst image.  If you send out poorly or unedited images, you are not doing yourself any favors.

If you practice the four things I’ve outlined here, you should be able to produce technically excellent images with your Micro4/3 kit.  If you do the work, you can eke out the best of Micro4/3 and be as satisfied with your images as any of those others who have larger sensors and more pixels.  However, these aren’t the only things you need to practice.  There are others but these, in my opinion, are the most important.

f/8; ISO 1250 (click to enlarge)

I hope these tips helped.  Micro4/3 systems are wonderful tools and you can make as good photographs as anyone who uses larger format systems.  You just have to know your gear and use excellent technique.  

ADDENDUM:  In reality these tips can apply to any format camera system, not just Micro4/3.  These tips are just a smarter way to create better images.

Join me over at my website, https://www.dennismook.com.  

Thanks for looking. Enjoy!  

Dennis A. Mook  

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