Getting The Most Out Of A JPEG Image File

This looks pretty abysmal, but it is a JPEG file SOOTC providing maximum flexibility in editing
to allow you to achieve your vision without having to deal with a RAW file (click to enlarge)
X-T1, 16-55mm f/2.8 lens @ 45.5mm; 1/1600th sec. @ f/6.4; ISO 1000; Circular Polarizer

This post is primarily for those who want to achieve their vision by editing their image files, but don't photograph using the RAW format due to various reasons such as not having a camera that can shoot RAW, have editing software which can handle the RAW files from their camera, want to save space on their memory cards or hard drives or just don't want to deal with RAW files. It is not for those who want to produce a finished JPEG image straight from the camera.

If you like editing your image files to fulfill your vision of how you want your images to look but don't want to mess with RAW files, here is a method that will give you the maximum flexibility, best quality and, hopefully, the highest level of satisfaction from JPEG image files.

First, JPEG files are 8-bit files compared to 12 or 14-bit RAW files.  What does this mean? Generally, it means there is much less information in the file as well as fewer colors, which translates to a lessor ability to manipulate the files without seeing some artifacts appear.  Additionally, JPEG files are compressed to save space.  What does that mean?  It means that some of the file information has been removed forwever (never to return) which results, again, in lower quality and less flexibility when making large enlargements or dramatic editing changes.  By using JPEG files you are already potentially far behind those who use RAW files in the ability to create a final file that suits your taste.

How do we maximize quality in JPEG files if that is what we desire to use?  Use your camera settings in the most advantageous manner to not paint your self in a corner, so to speak, by producing a file that is essentially as you want it right out of the camera or one that has the most amount of information available for editing. One way to do that is to set your JPEG settings in your camera to reflect pretty much how you want your image to look after you press the shutter so you don't have to do much, if any at all, editing.  This requires good photographic technique so you hit the exposure, composition, etc. right in the camera.  But if you enjoy editing your files or you don't have great technique yet, how do you maximize your ability to end up with good looking files?

I use a Fujifilm X-T1, which gives me tremendous control over my JPEG files.  Here is how I set my camera's controls to maximize versatility in JPEG files and why.  With most of my previous photo gear, I would not even think about shooting JPEGs instead of RAW files. But for many things, the Fuji produces exquisite files that are sufficient for most purposes.

The settings I recommend are based upon the premise that less is more.  You can always add contrast, saturation, color, etc., but it is often times difficult to remove too much.

This is how I would initially edit this same file (click to enlarge)

Image Size; 3:2 (uses the full sensor area)

Image Quality: Fine JPEG (best image quality for JPEGS)

ISO:  Lowest possible while allowing the settings you need for depth of field and/or to stop action with adequate shutter speeds

Dynamic Range: Auto (depending upon the ISO, gives additional highlight and shadow detail

Film Simulation: Pro Neg S (Fuji's lowest contrast and most accurate color simulation)

White Balance: Auto* (Fuji's auto white balance is very accurate and I don't hesitate to use it as corrections are mostly very minor, but you may to prefer to use a white balance that matches conditions to maximize quality)

Black and white conversion using Acros + an orange filter in
Nik (Google) Silver Efex Pro 2 (click to enlarge)

Color:  -2 (produces minimal color; you can always add color but if you have too much you can lose detail which may not be able to be recovered)

Saturation:  -2 (same as above; overly saturated colors can lose detail.  It is easier to add more saturation than to lose detail in overly saturated yellows or reds)

Sharpness:  -2* (I prefer to sharpen in Lightroom as it gives me fewer prominent "white lines" next to my edges, however, you can also set this in my opinion, at +1 as that will give pretty good sharpening in-camera; also, you may want to sharpen selectively, not apply the same sharpening to the entire image.  For example, you don't want to sharpen a plain blue sky or any other smooth toned subject).  You can do that in editing software but not in-camera.

Highlight Tone:  -2  ( retain all of the highlight detail possible.  It is easier to add contrast to low contrast highlights than try to recover detail from overly contrasty highights)

Shadow Tone:  -2  (same goes for the shadows; retain all the shadow detail possible, you can always add contrast to the shadows if they look mushy)

Velvia styled version (click to enlarge)

Noise Reduction:  -2  (the image above was made at ISO 1000;  Unless you use higher ISOs, you don't really need to use noise reduction.  Additionally, it is better to reduce noise in a directed fashion rather than apply it to the entire image.  For example, you can reduce noise in shadows if necessary but not in midtones or highlights if it is not necessary.  Noise reduction eliminates subtle details so you have to be judicious in its use.  If you need to use some, almost all editing software is more sophisticated than cameras.)

Long Exposure Noise Reduction:  Off  (same as above)

Lightroom conversion; higher contrast, warm tone (click to enlarge)

Lens Modulation Optimizer:  On  (this helps with sharpness in the corners, distortion and vignetting.  I've not noticed any image degradation by using it, in fact, it helps image quality)

Color Space:  Adobe RGB (Adobe RGB records many more colors than sRGB.  sRGB is like having a box 15 of crayons versus a box of 100 crayons with Adobe RGB.  More subtle colors recorded means more flexibility in editing and better quality).

As you can see here, with a full dynamic range Adobe RGB JPEG file, you can do almost anything with it to achieve your vision.  If this interests you, go out and experiment with these settings then change one setting at a time to see what changes it causes in your JPEG files.

Of course, you could always shoot with RAW files and all of this versatility plus even more is at your fingertips.

Classic Chrome style (click to enlarge)

Digital cameras today are marvelous and sophisticated computers with lenses attached.  Know your gear and utilize its capabilities to their fullest so you can produce the best image files of which the gear is capable.

Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

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