Friday, February 6, 2015

Differences Between the Olympus E-M1 and the Fujifilm X-T1 Used Side-By-Side; A Comparison Of Images

Farm Scene made with Olympus E-M1 (click to enlarge)
Being the curious individual that I am, I thought I would take the X-T1 and the Olympus E-M1 out and make some side-by-side images, then compare the results.  In case you don't want to read this entire post or closely examine the images for yourself, both cameras (of course) are capable of making excellent images.  But, both have an issue or two.  In the end, you have to decide which one of these fine cameras works better for you.


Farm Scene made with the Fujifilm X-T1 (click to enlarge)
Take a look at both of these scenes of a small farm.  I edited them to loosely color and density match and imported them at their native size, hoping we could view them full size, but it seems Google still restricts the size of imported images.  Both cameras produce an excellent image and one would have a hard time telling the difference between the two.  And so it is with these two cameras.  There are some differences in how the X-T1 reproduces fine detail and foliage, but you really can't see it unless you are looking at the image at pixel level or 100%.  On the other hand, the E-M1 is worse at higher ISOs in producing digital noise.  That is the bottom line for me after testing these two cameras side-by-side.

Now there are differences in handling, controls and menus, collectively called ergonomics and features, but as far as images go, the strengths of one is offset by the strengths of the other. 

(NOTE: One thing I determined is that my X-T1's lightmeter reads about 1/3 stop more exposure at medium and lower light levels, but equal exposure at higher light levels!  Go figure!)

Here are some other images with some of the 100%, pixel level differences, as some of you will want to see.  Digital noise comparison comes Monday.


Test Scene Shot with both an X-T1 and E-M1  (click to enlarge)

100% crop with best edits in Lightroom 5.7.1 (click to enlarge)
Notice the "funny" patterns between the rocks and in the
wood of the root to the right
Same image as in first 100% crop photo except the raw file converted in Photo Ninja (click to enlarge)
Same subject but made with the Olympus E-M1 (click to enlarge)


X-T1 image from RAF file.  Sharpened using the "100% Detail Slider" method in Lightroom 5.7.1. (click to enlarge)
As a whole it looks really good.  I have no complaints.  Even at 50% it looks very good.
Look at it at 100% and it starts to show mushy green foliage and "black outlines" around the smaller branches (see below).

Same subject, approx. same focal length and same aperture but with the E-M1.  (click to enlarge)
Looks great, in my opinion.  At 50% and 100% the image is fully detailed (see below).

X-T1 at 100% crop.  (click to enlarge)
Look closely at the character of the smaller branches.  Look normal to you?
Also, look closely at the nature of the green pine needles.  Judge for yourself.
But, do you really need to examine any image at this magnification?  You decide.

Same as above but from the E-M1. (click to enlarge)
Notice the difference in how the foliage and small branches are rendered?
Same X-T1 image but converted in Photo Ninja (click to enlarge)
Compare this version to what you see in the Lightroom conversion of the same file.

I could include several more comparisons as I spent a day out with both cameras making images side-by-side in a variety of circumstances.  The bottom line for me, which is consistent with my other tests and what I have previously posted, is that Lightroom doesn't do as good a job as does Photo Ninja in converting X-Trans files. Lightroom does well in converting E-M1 files.  But you already know what?  You only see this at 100%.  Do you really need to look at your images at 100%?  How many of us really need to enlarge on a scale that these minor differences are seen?


A man goes into his doctor's office.  The doctor asks him what's wrong.  The man lifts his right arm up over his head and says, "Doc, my shoulder really hurts when I raise my arm like this."  The doctor looks him over and tells him he can fix you right now and at no charge.  "How?" the man asks.  The doctor replies, "Don't raise you arm up that high anymore!"

Same thing with these files.  If you don't like what you see, don't look at them that closely anymore. If you look at them at 50% you are going to like what you see.  Looking at them at 50% should give you a really good idea of how well  your files are with every camera you own.  If you need to look at the X-T1 files at 100% and demand that it look as best it possibly can, buy Photo Ninja (or, I'm told but don't personally know, Iridient) and use it to convert your files.  You should be happy then.

I think I'm done testing the X-T1, with the exception of one more comparison.  That is images at higher ISOs.  I now am very familiar with the camera's image quality and what to expect. I am familiar with the controls, menu items and its pros and cons.  I can only take this so far.  I need to get out and just use the camera for pleasure rather than for testing.

Look for the high ISO test on Monday.

Thanks for looking.  Enjoy!

Dennis Mook


Many of my images can be found at www.dennismook.com.  Please pay it a visit.  I add new images regularly.  Thank you.



All content on this blog is © 2013-2015 Dennis A. Mook.  All Rights Reserved.  Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution.  Permission may be granted for commercial use.  Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

5 comments:

  1. There are ways in lightroom to convert files using good setting in sharpening with attention to detail, pun intended, that reduces most of what you are seeing.

    sharpening x-trans files in adobe lightroom - Pete Bridgwood

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  2. It remains a difficult topic, that demosaicing... isn't it? Somehow, I still like the X-T1's picture better than the E-M1. Trees, branches and foliage are the most difficult 'Fuji' subjects I ran into myself, including some walls having a very fine, irregular texture. There is Lightroom not always a decent result, even getting in trouble in a not-zoomed in mode. If you want to go for the best, Iridient does it because it has also a very refined sharpness control. That being said, I'm not fully liking what it proposes as a standard either, tweaking it a bit delivers the kind of result we should have in ANY RAW convertor. When will that get done, Fuji? It would make this camera system the very best in his class, even compared to a lot of FF-competition out there, but now a lot of people pass aside Fuji because they know what kind of hassle the conversions bring. Dirk B

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  3. Thank you for the comment. I think you better go back and run some additional tests. While Pete Bridgewood's suggestion helps, it still does not solve the problem of mushy green foliage nor outlining in black of fine detail. Adobe has not yet developed algorithms that fully convert X-Trans files in a manner which they should. Lightroom 6 will be out shortly. I'm hoping they have solved it in that new version. In the mean time, in my testing, Photo Ninja does convert the files much better.

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  4. First of all your web page layout is awfull, very hard to see it on iPad. The second, lightroom cant render Olympus files properly. Check this out
    http://www.mu-43.com/showthread.php?t=39682

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    Replies
    1. Dimon, thank you for your comment. I shoot traditional stock photography professionally. The files I submit have to have extremely high quality. The stock agency finds the E-M1 image files converted in Lightroom meet or exceed their standards for submissions. I find Lightroom meets my standards and converts my E-M1 files well. But, as I say, we each get to have our own opinions. Opinions are neither right nor wrong, just opinions. Thanks for pointing me in the direction of that bit of information.

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