I wanted to test my E-M1 to see what differences I could expect by raising my ISO as necessary for any particular conditions as I normally would or just underexpose the image at ISO 200, then brighten the image in Lightroom. I set up two tests, one indoors and one outdoors. I placed the camera on a tripod, turned image stabilization off, put it on manual exposure, set auto white balance, set it for raw file format and manual focus. I planned on testing ISOs from 200 to 6400, the range which I would normally use the camera. I don't normally use JPEG format nor do I use ISOs greater than 6400, so I didn't test that file type or settings higher than ISO 6400.
In order to keep this blog post relatively short, I will only post the images from the extreme, comparing ISO 6400 correctly exposed and ISO 200 underexposed 5 f/stops. The results I saw seem to somewhat apply to these intermediate images as well as the extremes. I will explain the differences I saw in the intermediate ISOs tested.
Disclaimer: These tests are informal and non-scientific and only apply to my particular sample of the camera and under these particular conditions. Your camera and/or conditions may vary, so just take the results for what they are as one particular example and not valid for all cameras and all conditions. I don't have any sophisticated testing instruments. I can only visually look at the results and assess what I see. I'm just a photographer trying to better understand his camera and how it reacts in different situations and want to share what I find.
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ISO 6400 correctly exposed for the light level; 1/60th sec. @ f/8 (click to enlarge)
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ISO 6400 properly exposed (click to enlarge) |
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ISO 200, 5 stops underexposed, then adjusted to match correct exposure in Lightroom 5.7.1. (click to enlarge) |
However, and this is an interesting however as I did not see this in the X-T1 tests, the histograms are very different showing "combing" or a loss of data in the lower tones with the underexposed image. This did not appear in the properly exposed image nor in any of the images in the exact same tests with the X-T1. Since in this particular scene, those lower tones are mostly black, you won't see any loss of data in the image itself. But what about other images?
Here is the outdoor scene. There are similar results, however, the 5 stop underexposed image shows a bit more contrast and the auto white balance shows a red shift which gets greater as more underexposure occurs. Other than that, the results are similar to the indoor scene.
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ISO 200 |
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ISO 6400 properly exposed; color noise reduction only applied (as default in Lightroom) but no luminance noise reduction (click to enlarge) |
At ISO 1600 and above, I see a definite red shift in the underexposed images. This may be a function of the auto white balance. In any case, the slight shift, which gets worse as you further underexpose images, can be neutralized in editing software, but it does occur.
As in the ISO 800 image, the ISO 1600 image versus the 3 stop underexposed image look about the same, but the properly exposed image seems to have a bit more fine detail compared to the underexposed image. Just a tiny bit if I look really close, but nothing you would notice by just looking casually. You really have to look closely to find that small detail. I would say, for all practical purposes, they are the same.
At the ISO 3200 and 6400 settings versus the 4 and 5 stop underexposed images, I see a definite difference in noise and detail in the favor of the properly exposed images. The ISO 6400 image versus the ISO 200 underexposed image is illustrated here.
In this outdoor scene, the "combing" and loss of data in the histogram extends farther toward the middle tones. So there is even more loss of data than in the indoor test image. That is not good. I see that in every image down to ISO 800. At ISO 400, the histogram in solid and shows no data loss. Again, the histograms technically show a data loss, but I don't think the loss is something that one would notice in most images unless you were doing some heavy editing. However, I wanted to mention it so you are aware of that fact.
From what I have seen from these brief, informal, non-scientific tests, I can only conclude that, unlike the exact same tests with my Fujifilm X-T1, there are differences between properly exposing an image at a high ISO versus keeping your ISO at 200, thus underexposing and subsequently brightening the image in your image editor. This must reflect a difference in how Fujifilm and Olympus has designed their systems. At this point, I'm not sure why or what those differences may be, but the two systems react a bit differently when tested in this matter.
The other major difference I found between the two systems is that there was absolutely no color noise (chrominance noise) usually showing up as red/blue blotches in the X-T1 images even in the 5 stop underexposed image. I have never seen that in any other camera I have owned and tested. I'll make a leap of a conclusion here, and I may be wrong, but I can only assume Fujifilm is applying color noise reduction (and it may be luminance as well as chrominance) to their raw files in camera and the user has no control over it. I have left the default chrominance (color) noise reduction setting in Lightroom 5.7.1 intact for the E-M1 files for this test so I could make a valid comparison against the X-T1. If I scale it back to 0, there is a lot of color noise in the E-M1 files as you would fully expect. Since Fujifilm has already removed it, I can't adjust it out in the same way I can with the Olympus.
You decide if you reach the same conclusion as I have. I'm sure there are some niggles in differences in conclusions, but overall, the images between proper exposure and underexposure are pretty close. Looking at the images in their entirety and not pixel peeping, they look identical with a bit of tweaking in my editor. I really don't think it makes much of a difference as to whether you set your camera to properly expose at, say, ISO 3200 or underexpose at ISO 200, then adjusting the exposure in Lightroom or another image editor.
So, don't worry about making a mistake and accidentally underexposing your images, go out and enjoy your gear and make some photographs!
I have performed the same tests for the Fujifilm X-T1 and posted those results in my last blog entry. If you are interested, you can find it here..
Thanks for looking. Enjoy!
Dennis Mook
Many of my images can be found at www.dennismook.com. Please pay it a visit. I add new images regularly. Thank you.
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Very interesting :) Thanks a lot for your analysis!
ReplyDeleteVery nice job with these tests. It seems I've read elsewhere that Fuji is applying some degree of noise reduction at some point before the data is actually read out to the SD card. They may need to do so by way of processing their unique CFA pattern. As for the E-M1 images, based on the samples here, I think I'd maintain the standard approach: Shoot at the higher ISO when necessary, and clean up in Lightroom / Photoshop as needed. The results are cleaner, even if only a little, and the process is simpler and more direct both at shot time, as well as during processing.
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