Tuesday, April 18, 2023

Some Random Thoughts And Things I’ve Learned About Using Fujifilm Cameras; Part II

Purple Profusion Spiderwort (click to enlarge)
Fujifilm X-T1; 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 lens @ 128mm; 1/6th sec. @ f/16; ISO 200

I have owned and used a variety of Fujifilm cameras since February 2014.  No matter what other systems I have owned and used, I seem to always return to Fujifilm.  Here are some additional random thoughts and things I've learned while using Fujifilm cameras.  Part I of this two-part post can be found here.

The ISO calibration in Fujifilm cameras used to not match those in other brands.  Generally, I had found that Fujifilm rated their ISOs about a stop faster than other brands.  In other words at equal ISOs and exposure settings, Fujifilm images are about one stop darker than other cameras I’ve owned.  However, in recent testing of the X-T5 directly against the Nikon Z7II, all things equal, the exposures now match.  That is a change.  That is good news.  The tests were made using JPEGs as they directly reflect exposure from the camera manufacturer while raw images can vary in appearance based upon how the editing software manufacturer decides to demosaic the raw files.

Fujifilm X cameras have ISO invariant sensors (I’m not sure about the GFX cameras).  Briefly, that means you can either expose your images properly using high ISOs when necessary or underexpose them by a couple of stops using a lower ISO, then raise the level of image brightness in your editing software and the differences will be minimal.  I tend to underexpose my images a bit in this way regardless of the ‘expose to the right’ philosophy (ETTR). Two benefits of underexposing your images using lower ISOs is a) you won’t blow out your highlights and b), you don’t reduce your dynamic range as much.  Raising your ISO results in a commensurate reduction in dynamic range.

The way I tend to shoot, I want three dials, which Fujifilm provides.  An aperture ring on the lens, a shutter speed dial and an exposure compensation dial.  I use the exposure compensation more than the other two but until the X-T5, that dial has just been a little too stiff to rotate using only my thumb.  The X-T5’s exposure compensation dial seems to have just the right amount of resistance so it doesn’t move accidentally, but can be moved with just thumb pressure instead of having to use both a thumb and index finger.  Thank you Fujifilm.

Acadia National Park, Maine (click to enlarge)
Fujifilm X-T2; 16-55mm f/2.8 lens @ 34mm; 1/80th sec. @ f/11; ISO 400

Speaking of exposure compensation, I did some experiments with my X-T4.  In a wide variety of scenes, I shot every photo using no exposure compensation whatsoever.  Aperture priority only.  You know what?  Ninety-five percent of the resulting image files were fine.  Only a very, very few had some blown out highlights in small areas and those were in very contrasty scenes.  That tells me Fujifilm cameras have a lot more flexibility than we might assume and fine tuning exposure is not as critical as we might think.

Going back and forth between the entirely different knobs/dials, buttons and setups of the X-H2S and X-T5 is sometimes challenging.  More than once I forgot how to change a particular setting in one camera after extensively using the other camera.  For example, I had been using the X-H2S exclusively for a few weeks to photograph birds, etc.  The next week I took out the X-T5 and wanted to change the drive settings but, for the life of me, I couldn’t find the menu setting to change it.  On the H2S there is a function button on the upper left of the back of the camera named “Drive” which brings up all your drive settings.  Well, there isn’t a menu setting or button in the X-T5.  There is a dial under the ISO knob that rotates.  I knew that.  I knew it well, but had a temporary brain freeze I guess.  Maybe I should have bought the X-H2 instead of the X-T5?  I could then set up the two cameras identically.  Don’t get old and forgetful.  That seems to becoming an issue for me at times.  However, getting older is better than not getting older, if you know what I mean.

I’ve had my T-series cameras get thoroughly soaked in really heavy rain with stiff winds and have never had a problem with water incursion or residual moisture.  That goes for the WR lenses as well.  I used to worry about them getting wet.  No more.  

Canadian National steam locomotive #3254 in the shop at Steamtown National Historical Site.
Scranton, Pennsylvania (click to enlarge)
Fujifilm X-T2; 16-55mm f/2.8 lens @ 27mm; 1/50th sec. @ f/5.6; ISO 200

As much as I prefer the haptics, shape and button/dial layout of the T-series cameras, I still prefer a shutter button that is farther forward as is located on the H-series of cameras.  Locating the shutter button farther forward is a much more natural position.  The shutter button naturally falls under your index finger.  The X-T5 has moved the shutter button farther forward than other T camera, but not quite far enough.  Good effort, however.  Thank you.

I hope Fujifilm does not continue to remove the 4-way pad from future cameras.  I find that 4 button layout incredibly well-placed and handy for various assigned functions.  I’m not a fan of swiping up/down/left/right on the LCD screen to activate functions.

The return of the three-way LCD screen (as has been on the X-T3) is welcomed.  I would like to see Fujifilm go one step farther and devise a four-way screen in the same style as the Nikon Z9 or some of the Panasonic full frame cameras.

I still have absolutely no interest in video.  

You’ll get the most accurate autofocus with your Fujifilm cameras by switching to manual focus and using the AF-On button (or another button you can program for that function if your camera doesn’t have an AF-On button).  Why?  When using AF-S or AF-C, Fujifilm cameras focus with the lens stopped down to the working aperture which displays more depth of field that can result in AF errors.  With manual focus and AF-On, the camera focuses with the lens wide open, which minimizes depth of field resulting in more accurate AF.  Shallower DOF means more accurate autofocus.

I have both my Fujifilm cameras set to use the electronic first curtain shutter.  Fujifilm says that setting provides the least amount of blackout as well as sharpest images up to 1/2000th sec.  I think the ‘sharpest’ notation goes back to the old ‘shutter bounce’ issues with earlier mirrorless cameras.  Sounds to me like a good general setting, however.  With the X-H2S and when set to 15-20fps photographing birds-in-flight, I use the fully electronic shutter.

Great Egret (click to enlarge)
Fujifilm X-H2S; 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 lens @ 400mm; 1/1600th sec. @ f/6.4; ISO 320

Fujifilm no longer provides the number or major firmware updates as they once did.  In an interview a couple of years ago a Fujifilm manager explained why.  The reason he gave was that, in the infancy of development of the X cameras, the engineers were learning how to improve features and performance so they passed improvements on as they were perfected.  Now experienced, they don’t necessarily release cameras with features or technology that is not fully developed.  Or so they say.  But that doesn’t mean that their frequent firmware updates aren’t appreciated and aren’t missed.  I would especially appreciate some additional AF subject detection speed and accuracy updates for the X-H2S and X-T5.

I fully take advantage of the C1-C7 custom banks of saved settings on my X-H2S.  They provide a fast and easy way to substantially reconfigure my camera at the twist of a top dial.  That said, I now do the same, albeit to a lesser amount, with my X-T5.  The difference being that the X-T5 doesn’t allow as many saved settings (such as aperture priority, shutter priority, manual, various autofocus settings) because those settings require a physical control to be changed while the H2S’s controls are all electronic.  

I found I could use my banks of saved settings in a variety of ways on my X-T5.  I used to program them for just different film simulations but now use them for a variety of ‘use cases’ rather than just the simulations.  

(click to enlarge)
Fujifilm X-T3; 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 lens @ 100mm; 1/50th sec. @ f/11; ISO 640

To wrap things up, I’ve found that how a camera feels in my hand, how the buttons, dials and knobs are laid out and configured as well as how the menus are designed so that when all taken together, it becomes intuitive to how my brain works, makes as much if not more importance to my overall satisfaction when considering buying a camera.  It’s the experience of using these cameras as much if not more than the image characteristics.  That is why I repeatedly buy Fujifilm cameras.  They just work for me.

Join me over at my website, https://www.dennismook.com.  

Thanks for looking. Enjoy!  

Dennis A. Mook  

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7 comments:

  1. Hi Dennis,
    Hope this finds you well and that you continue to be vertical. And hope that hand heals soonest. You said, "I found I could use my banks of saved settings in a variety of ways on my X-T5. I used to program them for just different film simulations but now use them for a variety of ‘use cases’ rather than just the simulations."
    I would enjoy a post about what those "use cases" are and what you include and why.
    Thanks,
    Al

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    1. Al, thank you for the well wishes. The hand seems to ‘generally’ improve a little every day. But there are some parts that are still really sensitive to the point where I still can’t hold anything without pain. I’ll consider a post about what use cases I configure my T5.

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    2. Dennis please take your time. I don't expect it soon. Wait for the hand to improve.

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  2. Dennis,
    I enjoyed reading these two posts and I feel I can really relate. I’ve only owned a few digital cameras and switched from a Canon 50D to the Fujifilm X-T3 several years ago. I was fascinated by the style of the X-T3 and loved the idea of the manual dials. You can get great pictures with any decent digital camera these days but my appreciation for the way my camera looks and feels actually changes the way I feel about taking pictures on some level. Combining that with the results I can often get right out of the camera has just increased my enjoyment of the craft. It took me quite a while but I have finally gotten to where I can take pictures that look the way I want them too with very little editing. It has freed me from the computer desk. I have managed to create presets that I use based on the lighting situation. It’s been a huge relief from the frustration I was feeling while struggling to edit raw files to my liking. It’s my camera and an iPad now and I can travel anywhere with all I need in most cases.

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    1. Thank you for your comment. It sounds as though you have found a system that really works for you. Excellent!

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  3. After having just discovered your site and reading your post about the Fujifilm X-H2s for bird photography - I felt as though I was reading something that I could have written myself. Not being able to get a high enough percentage of tack sharp images and high noise are absolutely the bane of my life. I’ll now spend some time changing a few settings to see if some of your suggestions work for me too. Thanks for a good read. I found it quite reassuring that I’m not the only one in the same boat.

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    1. I’m glad I am able to help. Thank you for your comment.

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