Could The Olympus E-M1 Mark III Be The Most Versatile And Best All Around Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera Today?

All of the images here have been previously posted.  All were made with the E-M1 Mark III and are included just to illustrate this post with a number of images of a number of different subjects made in a number of different situations.
Click on any to enlarge.

NOTE: I predict this post will be a bit controversial so I first want to put in the disclaimer that what I've written is my opinion.  Opinions are just that, not right nor wrong, just opinions.  Your opinion may be entirely different and that is okay.  

That said, I believe a case can be made that the Olympus E-M1 Mark III may be the most versatile and best all around interchangeable lens digital camera available today.  That is a bold assertion.  I'm not saying this camera is the best or most capable camera at everything.  There is a difference.  Bear with me on this.

Since recently writing my thoughts about the Olympus E-M1 Mark III after using it for a few months, which you can find here, I started thinking about just what this camera (system) can deliver as compared to other interchangeable lens digital camera systems.  It was then I began thinking that this camera might be the best all around camera for most photographers.  Notice the qualifiers I inserted into that sentence.  That is because I don't possess all empirical knowledge about every camera.  But that is the conclusion I've drawn based upon my knowledge and use.

Certainly, the Olympus E-M1 Mark III (I'll refer to it as the 1.3 for the rest of this post) is not the absolute best at most things cameras are supposed to do but it does everything cameras are supposed to do really, really well.  Better than most photographers need a camera to do.  That's the key.  It may be best at serving as a versatile and all around camera for most photographers.  But I'm not saying it is best as a specialty situation camera, obviously.  If you need a camera that is the best at everything, this should not be your choice.  I don't think that camera exists.

When considering the 1.3's entire ecosystem including cost, size, weight, engineering, build quality, haptics, form factor, progammability, overall abilities as a "picture taking machine," available lens quality and selection and especially the second to none feature set included in the camera, few cameras can match what the 1.3 can provide for, again, all around photography.  Now add excellent image quality that more than meets the needs for 90% of all photographers (It is also my opinion that most photographers think they need more image quality than they actually do) to that list and, I believe, as a general statement, the 1.3 brings greater value and more versatility to photographers than any other interchangeable lens camera system today.


Immediately, I can anticipate some of you thinking three thoughts about this camera.  First, that micro4/3 cameras and sensors just don't cut it when compared to cameras with larger sensors.  For example, I'm sure you are thinking that micro4/3 camera sensors don't have the high ISO/low noise capabilities of full frame cameras in high ISO.  True. They don't.  However, I believe that most people don't regularly need awesome high ISO/low noise capability and, when they might, using the newest plug-ins which utilize artificial intelligence and machine learning, that point has been pretty much eliminated as an issue.  If you don't believe it, just download Topaz DeNoise AI and give it a try.  You will be amazed at how it can eliminate digital noise while keeping fine detail.  And...it will only get better in the future.

Second, you're thinking that the micro4/3 sensor just doesn't possess the dynamic range that a full frame sensor has.  Again, true.  But I believe that the dynamic range in this camera is very close, better than in previous models.  I say that because every time I encounter a scene that I think is beyond the dynamic range of the camera, I make three images, two stops apart, with the intention of compositing them into a single final image.  I've always (yes, always) end up being able to pull down the highlights and bring up the shadows in one of the three images satisfactorily that I needn't combine the three.  Correct exposure is important to maximize dynamic range and you can't be sloppy in your technique.  I haven't yet run into a situation where I've needed all three images but I'm sure I will.  That same scene will probably exceed the dynamic range of a full frame camera as well.  Generally speaking, there aren't an awful lot of times we encounter extreme dynamic range that our cameras can't already handle.  When we do, with this camera, a quick twist of the dial and it engages exposure bracketing.  A single push of the shutter button and three images are made in about 1/2 second.  Rotate the dial back and you're back in normal photographic mode.  Dynamic range really isn't much of an issue any longer, in my opinion.

Third, you're thinking, what about that measly 20.4mp sensor?  Puny.  Can't get the job done adequately.  Again, I think for most photographers, if they were honest with themselves, 20.4mp is more than they need for their purposes.  Not all photographers in all circumstances, mind you, but probably most.  Don't forget the image processor.  The image processor is just as important to producing excellent image quality as the sensor.  The 1.3 has the latest TruePic IX processor that just about takes the place of two processors in the E-M1X.  In my way of thinking, sensor size is not anywhere near the top of the decision tree when researching and buying a new digital camera.  All sensors produced in the past few years, no matter what size or resolution, are superb.

These statements are important as well so read them carefully.  A camera is a tool.  Generally, people try to seek out and buy the most appropriate tool for the job at hand.  The 1.3 is not the best tool for sports photography. It is not the best tool for landscape photography.  It is not the best tool for portrait photography.  It is not the best tool for scientific or legal photography.  It is not the best tool for low light or high ISO photography.  It is not the best tool for video.  However, the 1.3 will be more than "good enough" under almost all circumstances, but it is certainly not the best tool for those specialized jobs.  If you regularly practice any of those (as well as some other) kinds of photography as your primary genré and need the absolute best tool for one of those specific genrés, the 1.3 is probably not the tool you should choose.  However, if you are a generalist photographer, an enthusiast, a travel photographer, photograph family events or just love to photograph and carry a camera with you most all of the time, the 1.3 may be the best available option for you right now.

There is a large number of professional photographers using the micro4/3 format.  If you are interested in the list I've compiled, let me know and I'll post it.

As tools, some cameras are the most capable for a particular genre of photography but fall short in other areas.  For example, the Nikon D6, Canon 1DX III or Sony A9 II may lead the industry at fast focusing for capturing wildlife, birds-in-flight or fast sports action, but the trade-off is that they cost a (whole) lot of money for that best capability.  Additionally, the Nikon and Canon are very large and heavy while the Sony's, being smaller, sacrifices battery capacity for that reduced size.  The Fujifilm GFX 100 may be the best landscape camera today (100mp of resolution!) but, again, it cost $10,000 US, has a limited set of available lenses and it is very large and heavy compared to the 1.3.  My point is that every camera is a product of a set of compromises aimed at a target audience and, when buying one, there are trade-offs that have to be made by an individual according to his or her needs.

There are a couple of things, however, that I do think at which the 1.3 is best such as in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS) (CIPA Rating 7-7.5 stops), its extensive feature set, weather sealing and shutter longevity (there might be a camera with a rating of more than 400,000 actuations but I'm not aware of it at the moment).  At a moderate price in a small and extremely well engineered package, the 1.3 has a plethora of well thought out features, more than any other camera in my mind, for just about everything a photographer would want to do in a very competent package.  Now add some of the best lenses available, not only from Olympus but Panasonic/Leica as well (and others), and that completes the package.  Specialty cameras can do specific things better but a much higher cost in terms of money, size, weight and feature sacrifice.

Here are a couple of other things to consider.

Th 1.3's sensor is not the latest, biggest or has the most resolution, but at 20.4mp it produces excellent images with good dynamic range and low noise that will more than meet the needs of the majority of photographers.  Those who have not tried it won't believe it.  That is okay.  As for me, I've used this sensor in the 1.2 and 1.3 for about 3 1/2 years now and it gives me excellent results (take a look at my website for more micro4/3 images).  Also, I have had 24" X 30" (61cm x 76cm) prints made and they are outstanding in detail, color reproduction, sharpness and noise profile.  I can't make a case that I need a larger sensor or one with more pixels.  You might according to your "wants".  But what is the trade-off?

Additionally, if you need a larger file for printing really big, have you tried Topaz Labs Gigapixel AI for resizing your images?  It will amaze you.  It not only allows you to upsize your image files but it actually applies appropriate sharpening and, to my eye as well as others I've seen review this program, actually improves your file.  Printing large from the 1.3's sensor is NOT a an issue.

The EVF is not the latest generation but it is certainly good.  Unless I actually pay close attention to it, I don’t notice any difference between it and the newer, higher resolution EVF of my Nikon Z7 or Panasonic G9.  The EVF in the 1.3 provides a fast refresh speed, shadow and highlight information and plenty of detail for my needs.  A higher resolution EVF is nice, but not absolutely necessary for most of us.

With 121 focus points, the 1.3 doesn't have the most of any camera, but certainly enough for almost all of us.  In fact, with over 400 focus points in my Nikon Z7, Nikon realized too many focus points can slow down moving the activated points across the EVF.  They employed a feature to actually disable half of the focus points so you can move your focus square across the screen more quickly to reduce the possibility of missing a photo.

The 1.3 is not the least expensive camera but, what you get for your money, i.e., its value proposition, is as good as or better than any interchangeable lens digital camera.  You get many more features that will allow you to do many more things than any other camera of which I am aware.

The 1.3 is not the smallest, lightest or most portable camera but if it were any smaller many adults would find it too small to hold comfortably.   That is a reason you see optional grips made.  Reducing camera size was a great thing until it wasn't.  Many photographers want a camera which allows them to actually wrap their four fingers around the grip.  They don't want their little finger hanging off.  It lessens the feeling of security when holding the camera.  Haptics and especially balance is very important to photographers that, to many if unsatisfactory, won't want to pick up and use a camera.  Nothing like buying a camera and then not wanting to use it because it is too small, doesn't feel "right" in one's hands or just feels cheap.  The 1.3 is about the perfect size for most of us.

I know little about video.  I don't use it and am not interested in video.  However, for you readers who make videos, the 1.3 doesn't have the best or latest video specs.  It offers 4K 30fps and 1080 60fps, which is most likely just fine for casual video use.  The new 8K is a publicity stunt, in my book.  Many people have storage and computer problems editing 4K video.  Wait until they lust for 8K.  Get out your wallets!

The Olympus lenses are wide ranging and really of excellent quality.  Olympus has always been known for designing excellent lenses.  I'm not sure anyone can successfully argue against how good Olympus lenses are, not only in their PRO line of lenses, but their enthusiast line as well.  Now add the ability to natively use all of those great Panasonic/Leica lenses and that increases the system’s (and your) capabilities exponentially.  No adapters necessary that may not transmit all electrical connections or may slow focusing speed, etc.  Olympus makes their PRO line of lenses from 7mm all the way to 300mm (14mm-600mm FOV).  Their PRO primes are f/1.2.  The enthusiasts' primes, also excellent, are so tiny I can just about close my fingers around them while in the palm of your hand.  The Pro lenses have a lens function button which will work with both manufactures’ latest cameras.

Continuing on with Olympus' lens line, they don't have a large number of long super fast lenses, but the long lenses they now offer (40-150mm f/2.8 PRO and 300mm f/4 PRO) and with the 150-400mm f/4.5 PRO lens coming this winter, most photographers can get what they need.  Add in the 100-400mm, 200mm f/2.8 and 50-200mm f/2.8-4 from Panasonic/Leica and your capabilities have just expanded.  

Olympus also just introduced a 100-400 f/5-6.3 lens that, by all accounts I've seen and read, exceeds everyone's expectations in image quality.  Now, add the terrific MC-14 1.4x tele-converter (imperceptible degradation of image quality for all but the extreme pixel peepers and perfectionists) and with only the 40-150mm f/2.8 and 300mm f/4 and you can have in your bag capabilities from 80mm f/2.8 to 840mm f/5.6 in terms of FOV.  If you also consider the MC-20 2x tele-converter, you can then have usable focal lengths up to 1200mm at f/8.  Not too shabby.  Oh!  Did I mention with Olympus Sync IS these are all hand-holdable?

Of course, being micro4/3 format, these lenses don't provide the narrowest depth of field (DOF) available.  Let me ask, how many photographers that you know need the absolute narrowist DOF regularly?  Not many, I suspect.  Also, if you need or want the narrowist DOF, don't tell me full frame is the way to go.  Full frame also doesn’t provide the narrowest DOF.  If that is what is most important to you, get out your wallet and buy a medium format digital camera and a bevy of fast lenses.  Again, if you need the narrowist DOF, then micro4/3 is not your format anyway.  Best tool for the job, remember?  Trade-offs.

In my opinion, the 1.3's AF-S focusing is as fast as any and faster than most cameras.  I haven't heard anyone find fault with fast focusing.

Face and eye tracking focus is not as good as Sony’s and now Canon’s newest mirrorless cameras, but it works very well and is certainly usable for all but the most difficult assignments.  If you need the absolute fastest focus, buy one of those cameras.  But if you need to track faces and eyes more casually, say at kids' sports or events, I believe the 1.3 will serve you well.

The 1.3 has the “best in the industry” weather sealing and sensor dust removal.  You've seen the videos where the camera is placed under a wide open faucet with no water incursion or damage.  Also, I've used Olympus cameras since early 2012 and I've NEVER had to clean a sensor.  Others have said and written the same.  Whatever system they use, it is amazing.  The other camera companies should license their system and put it their own cameras.  Editing sensor dust in images from my other cameras has been tedious at best.

It is as programmable as any camera out in the market.  You can make this camera into whatever you need.

The 1.3's image stabilization is the best in the industry.  CIPA rates the IBIS alone as good for 7 stops and, with the 12-100mm f/4 PRO, the 300mm f/4 PRO and the upcoming 150-400mm f/4.5 PRO using Sync IS, CIPA rates the image stabilization at 7.5 stops.  Most wildlife shooters that I've seen who use Olympus and the 300mm f/4 PRO lens hand hold them because it is relatively easy to do, the weight is much less and the camera/lens combination become much quicker and more versatile than a tripod mounted huge telephoto combination.

For those of you who like to shoot JPEGs, the 1.3 offers a Superfine setting with the least amount of file compression available.  Now add to that the excellent Olympus color rendition, a multitude of ways to customize the look of your files and very pleasing JPEGs can be made and sent through Olympus' IOS and Android apps to your social media friends immediately—with Bluetooth or Wi-Fi.

The 1.3's shutter is rated at 400,000 actuations.  Two thoughts.  Are there any better than that (there might be) and, if so, at what cost and how many photographers will actually exceed 400,000 images on any particular camera and wear it out?

The 1.3 offers a handheld High Resolution imaging mode that gives you 50mp RAW or JPEG files.  You can also choose 25mp RAW files or JPEG files, which ever meets your needs.  In addition, the 1.3 gives you 80mp RAW or JPEG files if you place your camera on a tripod.

The 1.3 has in-camera Perspective Correction (both vertical and horizontal), in-camera focus stacking (up to 15 images), all kinds of bracketing including focus bracketing, four custom modes, customizable focus point patterns, a My Menu feature, joystick, AF-On function, live time, live bulb, live composite, Starry Sky, multiple exposures, and on and on and on.  For those of you who want to look more closely at the 1.3's feature set, I've included a more comprehensive list of features below.

When multiple focus points are chosen, you can set the camera to always start with the center point.  That way you don’t have to worry that when you initialize focus, the camera chooses a point to start focus that is not the place you want.  I can't think of any other camera that gives you that ability when employing multiple focus points in continuous AF mode.

An example of one of the little things that can be meaningful and is provided by Olympus is that various grid lines are available to be displayed in the EVF and LCD.  But that is not all.  You can select your own color and intensity of that color in how those grid lines are displayed in your EVF.  They are not just black as with other manufacturer's cameras.  Contrasting colors make the grid lines easier to see.  I've changed mine to bright lime green so I can easily see them.  Black lines blend in to easily with dark backgrounds and make the grid almost useless.

Here are a list of features that come with the 1.3.  If you are not familiar with what Olympus provides to their customers, you just be amazed.  If you want to look at Olympus' official specifications for this camera, you can find it here.

Four custom setting modes;  These are wonderful.  I never used to use these but one day "I saw the light!"  I set C1 for general shooting in aperture priority—how I would have my camera set for when I am just out wandering and looking around for things to photograph.  I have C2 set for when I'm out and I see something that is moving and I want to stop motion, now employing shutter priority with a 1/500th second shutter speed.  With one click, I've changed my settings to stop action.  I have C3 set also for shutter priority, 1/1600th of a second, auto ISO, etc., for general bird and wildlife photography.  Turning the dial to C3 effectively changes 10 or more settings at once.  Nice.  Finally, C4 has the same settings as C3 except with Pro Capture enabled.  That way, I can buffer as many as 35 images with a half-press of the shutter then never miss peak action because my reflexes might not be quite fast enough.  The upshot of the Custom Settings Function is I can walk around with the camera set in C1 custom mode and with a single turn of a dial, have all of my settings change immediately if I encounter an unexpected moving subject, wildlife or bird.

The 1.3 has a built-in Digital Tele-Converter and it is quite good.  I've used it on occasion and although it doesn't take the place of a longer focal length, it is there if you need it.  This feature digitally crops into the center of your image then automatically resizes the image back to 20.4mp.   

High Resolution Mode; 50mp, 25mp handheld, 80mp tripod mounted; RAW or JPEG

15 fps mechanical and 18 fps electronic with full AE and AF capabilities in FPS Low

Buffer up to 35 frames in Pro Capture Low which will be written to the card upon full press of the shutter; also that is with full AE and AF capabilities; buffer up to 60 frames in Pro Capture High

Live ND (AI neutral density filter simulation); 2-5 stops of ND. This is another amazing AI type feature. 

Starry Sky AF gives you the ability to automatically lock on to stars in the sky so focus is precisely on target.

Live Composite, live time and live bulb features.  Live Composite mode captures a base image and then only adds sections that become brighter in the scene in Live View. Live Bulb, allows photographers to see in Live View how the image is developing while keeping the shutter open for however long the shutter release button is pressed. Live Time, opens the shutter with the first press of the shutter release button and closes it with the second press while showing the photographer how the image is developing in in real time.

Joystick (I love this feature!)  I son't buy a camera in the future without one.

4K 30 fps/1080p 60fps for video; HDMI out; microphone and headphone ports.  I'm not a video person and this camera doesn't have the latest and greatest, but it seems to me that the vast majority who casually use video would be satisfied with 4k 30 fps.

There is an Interval/time lapse function.

Bracketing is available for AE/WB/FL/ISO/ART and Focus bracketing up to 999 exposures.

In-Camera 4-shot HDR (RAW and JPEG)

Focus Stacking (up to 15 images can be combined in-camera).  No need to try to figure out how to combine images in Photoshop of buy a specialty program.  However, the stacked final image is a JPEG but if you want RAW, the Focus Bracketing feature is right there also.

Multiple exposure capability

Vertical and horizontal in-camera perspective compensation (Keystone Compensation)

Silent Mode/Anti-Shock mode to eliminate noise and/or any potential shutter shock

AF-Center Start and Center Priority

Focus Point can be linked to either horizontal or vertical orientation

AF Focus Adjust in case at some point you need to calibrate individual focus points

Focus Peaking and magnification when manual focusing

AF + MF when in autofocus

Many lenses have the built-in mechanical clutch to enable manual focus which gives you hard infinity and close-up stops, no continuous spinning of the focus ring

Change focus direction either way according to your preference

Grid Lines for EVF and LCD

Programmable buttons including on some lenses

Change and program command dial directions and functions if you so choose

Function lever which now gives you twice the controls; program for position 1 and separate programming for position 2

Automatic flicker reduction; a necessary feature with the proliferation of LED lights in indoor environments

4 types of IBIS depending upon the kind of subject matter you are photographing

40 special effect scene modes (you can choose none to all of them to display in the Super Control Panel.  That keeps from cluttering up your controls if you only one a few.  You don't have to scroll through all of them if not needed.)

Live view boost

Histogram settings which are adjustable so you don't inadvertently lose highlights or shadows

Selfie Assist

EV steps in 1/3, ½ or 1 full EV

ISO steps in 1/3, ½ or 1 full EV

Auto ISO with auto or manual minimum shutter speed

Long Exposure Noise Reduction

High ISO noise Reduction

Bulb/Timer up to 30 minutes

Live Composite Timer up to 6 hours

5 light metering modes; including highlight or shadow biased if needed

Auto White Balance ability to keep warm colors or keep colors unbiased

Auto Vignette compensation

Dual SDXC cards; write to one, write simultaneously to both; write one file type to one and another file type to the other; sequential

Ability to rename files

Ability to directly add copyright and name/creator to file metadata

3 styles of EVF

Built-in horizontal and vertical level that can be displayed on LCD or EVF

Built-in histogram that can be displayed on LCD or EVF

S-OVF which is a simulated optical viewfinder to remove any effects of custom settings and allows the histogram show even a better representation of the subject’s dynamic range

Super Control Panel which displays more than 25 of your most used settings on the LCD

LCD touchscreen for menu selection

LCD touchscreen for AF and AF/shot

Wi-Fi and Bluetooth; App to transfer files and to act as a wireless remote

11 types of autofocus; 121 focus points

CIPA  rated 7 stops of IBIS; 7.5 with the 12-100 and 300mm lenses

Fully articulated LCD

2.36mp EVF; 1.03mp LCD

60 seconds to 1/8000^th second mechanical shutter; 1/32,000 second electronic shutter

Exposure compensation up to +- 5 stops

The best weather sealing in the industry (my opinion)

I could go on longer but I've rambled long enough.  Did I make my argument that when you consider everything you would want in a camera including image quality, price, size, weight, feature set, build quality, haptics as well as lens build quality, selection and their ability to resolve, etc. that the Olympus E-M1 Mark III may be the best available today?

If not, that is okay.  If I have convinced you, that's okay.  This may not be a camera you would even consider, want or serve your purposes and I'm certainly not trying to sell you an Olympus camera and lenses, Panasonic/Leica lenses or Topaz Labs plug-ins.  It may not be a camera that I will own in the future (although I have no reason to or intention of selling my Olympus gear).  I'm just making an argument that, all things considered, the entire package of this camera and the micro4/3 ecosystem is really an excellent way to go photographically for most photographers.  The camera and format don't get the respect they deserve, I think, because of the "influencers" who do their best to convince you that only full format will suffice.  That's a shame.

Finally, let it be known that I am not sponsored by anyone or any company, get discounts, rebates, commissions or special treatment.  I'm just a guy who loves photography and wants to share his experience for the benefit of others.

Again, all of this is my opinion that I've formed after using the E-M1 Mark III, Olympus cameras since 2012, a large number of both Olympus and Panasonic lenses as well as Nikon cameras and lenses, Panasonic cameras and lenses and Fujifilm cameras and lenses over the past several years.  You may disagree and that is okay.  I like to generate a conversation and allow those who have interest to debate their point. 

Most of all, enjoy your photography!

Join me over at my website, www.dennismook.com. 

Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

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