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Grounded by the fog. (click to enlarge) Olympus E-M1 Mark II, 12-100mm f/4 PRO lens @ 100mm; 1/500th sec. @ f/5.6; ISO 200 |
In my camera settings I normally have the Live View Highlight Alert, commonly called the "blinkies," turned on so I can easily see blown highlights. But this turns out to be my problem. For those of you who have never seen or used this feature, this setting shows blown highlights as blinking black, then white, then black, then white, etc. in the EVF and on the LCD. It is a visual aid to avoiding blown highlights if you are not one to pay attention to your histogram. The reason I tended to "underexpose" my images files with my Fujifilm cameras was because when looking through the viewfinder and setting what I believe was my desired exposure for any particular image, I would see the "blinkies" and reduce my exposure to ensure no highlights were blown. But... The "blinkies" you see reflect your film simulation settings and only apply to the embedded JPEG file, not necessarily to the RAW file (unless you were way overexposed). Those "blinkies" caused me to reduce exposure to ensure I hadn't blown my highlights. Better safe than sorry, I always thought. Hence, all of my images seemed to be about a stop underexposed.
With the X-T3, there is a setting called Natural Live View.
On page 195 of the X-T3's User's Manual, you will find this definition of Natural Live View:
"The effects of cameras settings are not visible in the monitor, but shadows in low-contrast back-lit scenes are and other hard-to-see subjects are more visible. Colors and tone will differ from those in the final picture. The display will however be adjusted to show the effects of advanced filters and of monochrome and sepia settings."Utilizing this setting does a couple of things. First, it basically permits you to see in the EVF and on the LCD what the RAW capture will look like, with all of its dynamic range. You will not see what your film simulation settings look like and not see how the embedded JPEG image will appear. This allows you to see more highlight and shadow detail as the what you are looking at is very low contrast, low color saturation, etc. Not seeing highlight and shadow detail, especially in high contrast or backlit scenes, has been a complaint with electronic viewfinders as opposed to optical viewfinders.
Natural Live View gives you a much better preview of what you will have to work with in your final image file. The negative aspect of Natural Live View is that looking through the viewfinder your image color will look nothing like real life so it is not pleasing. Ignore that. The files will look the same as always when you open your images in Lightroom or other editing program. This only affects the way you see it in the viewfinder.
The X-T2 has a setting called "Preview Pic. Effect," which reads and acts pretty much the same but somehow I think there is a difference, besides just how Fujifilm named it in the newer model camera. The view you get in the EVF in the X-T3 is even flatter and reveals more highlight and shadow detail than even an Eterna film simulation.
Here is an interesting comparison for you to do to see how this works. Looking at the same scene with Natural Live View turned off (using your favorite film simulation settings), increase your exposure until you get the "blinkies" to show. You think you are going to get blown highlights. Now turn on Natural Live View without changing anything else and you will see the "blinkies" go away. What you thought were going to be blown highlights are really not at all. Your film simulation JPEG preview is what shows them as blown. They will not be blown in the RAW file. Also, take a look at how your histogram changes. The apparent contrast is reduced, pulling the sides of the histogram in toward the middle. This feature is very helpful, even if you use it occasionally.
Another offshoot of this feature is that when turned on, the light meter readings are almost always now correct. Only an occasional adjustment to exposure needs to be made. In the past, I was adjusting my exposure compensation dial for almost every frame.
By setting a function button to easily turn Natural Live View on or off, I can now either see my set film simulation or quickly change it to see what the actual dynamic range of my RAW file will look like. I've come to really appreciate this and my files are no longer underexposed.
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Thanks for looking. Enjoy!
Dennis A. Mook
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This is one reason I read your blog, really useful and pertinent information you don't see elsewhere. It takes someone photographically talented who actually uses the equipment to be able to identify gems like this and explain it in detail so the rest of us can see its value.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Eric. I’m always here to help anyone who asks. It’s all about maximizing the enjoyment of our craft.
DeleteThanks for sharing your insight. I’ve experienced the same “underexposed” issue with my X-T2 and could never figure out why it was happening. Now I do.
ReplyDeleteMany don’t understand that the image you see on the LCD is the JPEG embedded within the RAW file. If you have your film simulation highlights and shadows set for +1, +2 or more, the JPEG is even more contrasty and you would think that your RAW highlights and shadows will be lost. Now they will if you are shooting JPEGs, but probably not in the RAWf file.
DeleteAnother way to accomplish almost the same thing as Natural Live View is to set one of your film simulations for Pro Neg (not Hi), which is the lowest contrast film simulation if you don’t have Eterna, your shadows at -4, your highlights at -4, and your color at a minus setting as well. That can pretty much simulate a RAW file, but not as well as Natural Live View. Leave your Sharpness at 0 or +1. If you turn that down, when you look at your images on the LCD they won’t look like they are in sharp focus and, if you don’t remember you turned the sharpness down, can drive yourself crazy trying to figure out why none of your images look sharp. Of course, in LR they will be fine. Again, it is that embedded JPEG you see on the LCD.
Great information. I sold my D500 and all of my Nikon lens to purchase the X-T3. I can now carry my camera all day and my photos have progressed. It’s been three months and still learning about my new camera. I listened to your comments awhile back concerting the Fuji X series and it was a great move for me. Thank you for your insights. Your friend, Al
ReplyDeleteAl, thanks for the kind words. If there is anything I can help you with, just ask. I’m certainly willing to share everything I know as well as all of the mistakes I’ve made. My goal is to have everyone enjoy photography as much as I do.
DeleteThank you, I will take you up on your offer as there are a few thing I’m trying to figure out. I am going to play with those items and see if I can get it first.
ReplyDeleteOMG, I have been trying to figure out how to get the most out of this sensor, bracketing shots for days to try and outwit the damn histogram based on film simulations. I was composing pleas to Fuji in my head for a linear response film simulation... but this is even BETTER. Wow. Never came across this in the manual. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteGlad you found this post helpful. I still (09/20) use my X-T4 in the same manner.
DeleteGreat tips! thank you for the straightforward information!
ReplyDeleteTracy, thank you.
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