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Test Target; From RAW file, processed as I would normally (click to enlarge) Camera settings outlined below |
There are many in-camera JPEG settings giving us excellent versatility in tailoring our images to our needs. One of those in-camera settings for JPEGs is sharpening. The sharpening controls on the Fuji X-T2 (and X-Pro 2) range from -4 to +4, a total of 9 sharpening settings. But which to use? Some photographers may prefer to set their camera for -4 and do all of their sharpening later in their editing software. The downside of that is the camera generates a JPEG image for the photographer to view on the LCD and at -4 your images will look soft and it will be difficult to judge correct focus and overall sharpness. (Even knowing this happens, I've been fooled into thinking my lens won't focus or my images are slightly out of focus! Not a good feeling. You go through your mental checklist asking yourself "what's wrong?") Others may want to set the in-camera sharpening level at another setting so they can use JPEGs right out of the camera.
I wanted to see what in-camera sharpening specifically means in my Fuji X-T2 so I went about conducting some tests to find out. Again, the better you know your gear, the better off you are.
I made a few images with my camera so I could see exactly what the effect was when the sharpening setting was set at every setting between -4 and +4. Here is how I constructed the test.
X-T2 with 50-140mm f/2.8 lens on a tripod, image stabilization Off.
ISO 200 (base and best for image quality)
Set for RAW + JPEG
Aperture Priority F/8 (excellent image quality at that aperture on the 50-140)
Shutter speed 1/140th sec.
Film Simulation set to "Ns"
Auto white balance
Dynamic Range Auto
Highlight Tone 0
Shadow Tone 0
Color 0
Sharpness varied with each exposure from -4 to +4
Noise Reduction 0
Color Space Adobe RGB
Grain Effect Off
This is an image made at ISO 200 with each setting of in-camera sharpening. You can get a good idea how the in-camera JPEG settings affect apparent sharpness, produces sharpening artifacts and influences overall image quality so you can decide if and how much of it you may want to use. Click to enlarge as it makes the differences much easier to see. Then look at the side-by-side comparisons below.
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-4 sharpness setting 1028 x 685 pixel crop from the 6000 x 4000 full image (click to enlarge) |
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-3 sharpness setting |
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-2 sharpness setting |
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-1 sharpness setting |
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0 sharpness setting |
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+! sharpness setting |
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+2 sharpness setting |
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+3 sharpness setting |
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+4 sharpness setting |
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Left image -4 (no sharpening applied); right image -3 |
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Left image -4 (no sharpening applied); right image -2 |
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Left image -4 (no sharpening applied); right image -1 |
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Left image -4 (no sharpening applied); right image 0 |
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Left image -4 (no sharpening applied); right image +! |
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Left image -4 (no sharpening applied); right image +2 |
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Left image -4 (no sharpening applied); right image +# |
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Left image -4 (no sharpening applied); right image +4 |
You can easily see the differences in the application of in-camera JPEG sharpening. Personally, I find +1 to be a nice compromise and somewhat replicate what I apply as input sharpening in Lightroom. Your mileage may vary.
UPDATE January 14, 2016: Going back and looking at the RAW image of this file and comparing it directly to the -4 sharpening JPEG image, -4 being the least amount of sharpening that can be applied to a JPEG image, it is my opinion that Fuji is applying a minor amount of sharpening even at the -4 setting. There seems to be no setting available that applies no sharpening whatsoever to JPEG files. That being said, the amount is very minor and does not negatively impact the image file quality that I can detect. I just thought this discovery was important and should be passed on.
Hope you found this little exercise valuable. I did.
Thanks for looking. Enjoy!
Dennis A. Mook
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Dennis, thank you very much for your article. It is very helpful. Good light to you :)
ReplyDeleteMartin, thank you for your comment. My pleasure to help others if I can.
DeleteThank you! It was helpful indeed.
ReplyDeleteYes, thanks for the research.
ReplyDeleteThanks heaps. I just got my fuji xt2 and feeling overwhelmed. My photos look good on screen and horrible on photoshop.I'm having difficulty weaning myself off RAW files but at home I can't open .raf files unless I buy into a monthly package. Not feeling the fuji joy as yet.
ReplyDeleteYou should check Capture One, they have a free Fuji-version that does great job with fujis raw-files.
DeleteThanks. It really helped me understand what that option means..
ReplyDeleteJust come across your interesting article and just wondering why you haven't chose +4 as your default as clearly it is the sharpest?
ReplyDeleteMark, thank for your question. Even though +4 applies the most sharpening, after looking at many images with different levels of sharpening applied, +4, to me, applies too much and looks over sharpened. Images look “crunchy,” which might not adequately show in the sample images. The +1 to +2 setting replicates the look I get when sharpening RAW files in Lightroom. The point being, that if I want straight out of the camera JPEG files to share or post, +1 to +2 gives me what I think are the best files.
DeleteIf you only photograph using the RAW format, it is fine to set the camera to +4 as that allows you to better evaluate on you camera’s LCD that your images are, indeed, properly focused and sharp. Sharpening is not applied to the actual RAW files but allows you to judge in-camera your images for best focus.
Very useful, Dennis, thank you very much. Only a doubt, when you talk about sharpening images in Lightroom, you mean using the adjustment 'sharpening' or you combine it also with 'clarity/texture', which also seems to act on sharpness (excuse me if not, I'm new in raw processing).
ReplyDeleteCocu, thank you for your question. You are correct. Not only do I use the sharpening sliders under the Detail panel, but Clarity and Texture also provide slightly different forms of sharpening as well. When I wrote this, Texture was not available in Lightroom. It was introduced since then. Now, I’ll use a combination of the three to get the final ‘look’ of an image that suits the subject as well as how I want it to look. I almost always increase texture. Most of the time, I’ll give an image a little bump of clarity but some images don’t need either. As I said, it depends upon the individual image. Good luck.
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