Not Sure Which To Get? A Fujifilm X-T1 Or Olympus E-M1? Here's My Take—I want a Fujympus OM-X E-T1!

Crab Pots, Messick Point, Poquoson, Virginia (click to enlarge)
X-T1, 18-55mm lens, 1/3200th sec. @ f/4; ISO 400

I pronounce that "Foo JIM pus", with the emphasis on the JIM syllable!  It is a combination of the best of the Fujifilm X-T1 and the Olympus E-M1!

Okay.  Let's assume that you have been reading about mirrorless cameras and decided you wanted to buy one, along with a few lenses, as your main camera gear instead of carrying around that big digital SLR.  Good decision, in my opinion.  After much reading, research, viewing You Tube videos, etc., you find both the Olympus E-M1 and the Fujifilm X-T1 alluring but aren't sure which would work better for your type of photographic work. 

(Note: There is nothing wrong with the Panasonic cameras, especially the GH-4, but I don't own one and haven't tried one so I can't comment on them)  

What to do?  Which to buy?  After all, you don't want to make a mistake or waste money on something with which you won't be happy.  My first suggestion, if you are really unsure, is to rent one of each with a decent mid-range zoom lens.  That, in an of itself, would be an enormous asset to you in your decision making.

I've owned and used both cameras (The E-M1 for 14 months and the X-T1 for about 4 months in total) and have formed some opinions about both cameras that may or may not be of help to you. However, always keep in mind that you may find your needs and wants different from mine.  You may find what is important to you in a camera different from me.  In addition, you may practice an entirely different type of photography than do I, but still, the information and experience I have may help you a bit.  We are in the situation here in which everyone gets to choose what is best for him or her, so you get to make up your own mind based upon your particular circumstances.  Read on to get my take on these two cameras.

Conclusion First 

At the end of the day, I think both cameras are worthy of being purchased as each has the potential to produce wonderful images.  They both handle well.  They both have most all the capabilities and features for which one would ever hope.  They both are reasonable in price.  Each camera system has a nice selection of lenses and accessories.  Each has its pros and cons, strengths and weaknesses.  But, what is a "pro" or a "con" to each individual is dependent upon your needs and your way of working. 

Bottom line, which ever has the particular capabilities, fits your particular way of photographing better and feels better in your hands is the one to choose.  You will "want to want" to pick this camera up and use it everytime you go out.  You really can't go wrong with either camera system.

Here is what I have found, as far as pros and cons, that get my attention.  Some are bigger issues than others, but none is an absolute deal breaker.  I plan on keeping both camera systems for the time being.  Eventually, I will sell one, but I have no idea at this time which one that will be since I'm liking both.

In the mean time, to find out which one is my personal preference, read on.

X-T1—The biggest issue for me with the Fujifilm X-T1 is Adobe's failure to write software that converts the X-Trans sensor files to their fullest potential.  If you don't use Adobe software, then this may not be an issue you should consider.  I'm married to my workflow with Lightroom and Photoshop and have been for many, many years and I don't wish to change.  That's the old curmudgeon in me.  This means, in order to get the best image quality from my X-T1 files, I have to buy a 3rd party software, in my case Photo Ninja, to extract the detail from the files. This adds cost and extra steps to my editing process. Not the best way to work, in my opinion.  Let's hope Adobe completely fixes this issue with Lightroom 6, which is on the horizon.  This is the biggest issue with the X-T1 for me.

E-M1—The biggest issue for me in the Olympus E-M1 is digital noise at higher ISOs.  I normally use ISO 200 to ISO 800 for 96% of my imaging with the camera (I do a metadata analysis in Lightroom each year of all my images).  But, even at ISO 800 some images generate some objectionable digital noise. Most of the time, I can satisfactorily reduce it to a point that it is not objectionable, but there are times when I can't without losing detail or turning the image into a plasticy representation of my subject.  That means, if I want to completely fix this particular issue I have with the camera, I have to buy a 3rd party software with more sophisticated noise reduction than Lightroom's to reduce the noise but keep fine detail.  Again, that adds extra cost and steps to my editing process. Again, not the best way to work.  But since 96% of my images are below my "noise threshold," it is not a major problem for me.

Other than these two issues, I find both cameras wonderful tools with which to work. There are some other, minor things, but no deal breakers.  I like using both.

Here is a rundown of the the important stuff about each camera for me—usability, controls, features and image quality.  This is not comprehensive, but I wanted to provide some information for those who might be researching both cameras to help make a decision.

Olympus E-M1, Lumix 35-100mm lens, 1/500th sec. @ f/8, ISO 200 (click to enlarge)

Camera Handling and Size

Both cameras feel good in my hands.  They both have a nice size and weight.  They are both about the same size.  Both feel as though they are high quality and a built well. Both are based on metal frames.  Both are weatherproof.

On the Olympus, the shutter button falls nicely and naturally under my index finger.  It is exactly where I would expect it to be.  The predecessor camera, the E-M5 overall, was too small for me without part of the extra grip attached (it is a two part system), but the E-M1 is a bit larger and fits perfectly.  Just feels right to me.

On the Fujifilm, the shutter button doesn't naturally fall under my index finger as it is on the top of the camera. Every other camera I have owned for many years has the shutter button on the top of the extended grip, which is a bit forward from the top of the camera.  This camera's forward grip ends halfway up the front of the camera.  This makes me alter my normal grip on a camera body so my index finger will easily find the shutter release button.  But, I got used to to the shift in grip quickly.  I would hope Fujifilm might extend that grip to the top of the camera and put the shutter button, along with a rotating dial under it, on that grip area.

Image quality

On the X-T1, foliage and fine detail don't render well if you are a Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw user.  I would suggest you buy Photo Ninja (I have heard Iridient also is excellent but I can't try it or vouch for it since it is only for Macs) and use it to convert your important raw files.  You can configure it as a Lightroom or Photoshop plug-in, which makes it more convenient to use.  There may be some other raw converters that also do a good job, such as Phase One, but I haven't yet tested them.  I don't think you need it for every file, but ones in which you may want to make a large enlargement or want to extract maximum detail will require something other than Lightroom or ACR.

If you are a landscape and/or nature photographer and look at your images at 100%, this camera may not be for you. Images that don't have fine foliage or other fine detail such as small branches, gravel, etc., aren't a problem as best as I can see, in Lightroom.  So, if you are a landscape or nature photographer, and you demand maximum quality, count on using a 3rd party raw converter to properly extract the detail and render your files as best as the sensor can record them. If you are more casual photographer and don't look at your image files at 100%, I don't think this will be an issue for you.

Both cameras have plenty of pre-programmed modes, such as miniature, toy, vivid, landscape, etc., if you are into that sort of thing. I'm not so I haven't used them in either camera.  I use the RAW imaging format so those features don't really interest me.

However, the film simulations in the X-T1 are excellent.  You should be able to find exactly the color palate (or black and white rendition) you want if you are a JPEG shooter.

I feel that my images from the E-M1 convert really well in Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw.  No need to buy an additional converter to help the files render fine detail.  Olympus' color is pleasing to me, as well.  I have a contract with a large, traditional stock photo agency.  They readily accept the images.  The quality should meet almost everyone's standards.

The files from both camera "uprez" easily to twice their size in Adobe Photoshop as well as Alien Skin Blow Up 3.  I have used both and the files look indistinguishable from the native files—if you get to know both programs and are very careful in how you do it.

Color 

Both cameras produce pleasing color palates, which can be altered in-camera if you use the JPEG format.  I slightly prefer the X-T1's color palate and the way it reproduces blue skies better than the E-M1.  But, as you know, in editing software, you can do anything you want with color.  I believe, with a modest skill level, you can mimic the color of one camera with the other, so this is not an important issue to me

Both cameras' auto white balance work remarkably well.  I used to never use it, but now I use it on both cameras.

Sensor, Image Quality and Digital Noise 

Both cameras are capable of producing very satisfying and excellent images.  In my opinion and as a general statement, I think APS-C is the best all around sensor size in today's digital environment, considering the size and weight of cameras and of their lenses, image quality, lens and accessory selection and cost.  At one time, I thought only full frame was the way to go, but with the results I have had with these two cameras, I no longer feel that way.

The X-T1 has the larger APS-C sensor with a 2:3 ratio.  I prefer 2:3 rather than 4:3, which is the ratio of the M4/3 sensor.  I written about this several times in the past so I won't repeat why.  It is just a personal preference.  One ratio is not inherently better than the other.  I would like to see the X-T2 have a 24mp (again, why I do I have written about in the past), however and that, I believe, is coming from Fujifilm.  I'm hoping, anyway.

The E-M1 has a smaller sensor than the APS-C sized sensor that is in the X-T1.  It is a 4/3 sensor with a 4:3 ratio, but, despite its smaller size, can also produce equally excellent images. The difference between the two sensor sizes, in my experience, is less than you would be led to believe.  You will be fine with this smaller sensor unless you want to make prints larger than 24" X 30" (61 X 76 cm).  I have had image files printed that big and they look good—really good!  I can't vouch for larger than that.  The caveat is good photographic technique is a must.

Like the X-T1, the E-M1's sensor also has roughly 16mp.  Again, I would someday hope for 24mp but I'm not sure that, with a sensor that is about 1/4 the size of a full frame sensor, that can be accomplished and keep the same high quality, or even better quality, less noise and more dynamic range as we would expect with time and maturity of the format. 

As I mentioned before, there is an issue with Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw being able to render fine details in the X-Trans sensor raw conversions, both in foliage and finely detailed objects, to the sensor's potential.  As a result, you have to use a 3rd party raw converter to get the most out of this sensor if you are fastidious about image quality.  If you don't examine your images at 100%, it won't be an issue for you.

The E-M1 shows a bit more digital noise than the X-T1.  I would say the X-T1 has about a stop to a stop and a half better in noise tolerance.  Because of that, with the E-M1 and very high ISOs and with important images, I export the images into another program specifically developed to reduce noise but keep fine details whenever I make images at high ISOs, which is not very often.  This kind of offsets, in some ways, the necessity to export the X-T1 files to a 3rd party raw converter to extract detail out of the image files. So, the inconvenience is a wash between the two cameras.

To summarize, both cameras have the ability to produce very pleasing, high quality images with which almost everyone would be happy.

Crab Shack and Pots (click to enlarge)
X-T1, 18-55mm lens, 1/750th sec. @ f/8, ISO 200

ISO Selection 

Both have adequate ISO availability.  One quirk, however, is that if you want an ISO lower than 200 or higher than 6400 and are a RAW shooter, the X-T1 does not make those available.  They are only available for the JPEG file format.  The X-T1 will go to ISO 51,200 in JPEG while the Olympus will get you to 25,600 in either RAW or JPEG.  Good luck with either of them!  At those extreme ISOs, neither will produce images you will want to use.  I'm not sure why such high ISOs are given such importance and press.  I can't imagine ever needing an ISO that high and I can't imagine 95% of the photographers out there ever needing them either.  I look at those extreme ISOs as a false feature.

Lens Selection 

Both camera systems have excellent lenses available, both zooms and fast prime lenses. Additionally, if you want to go that way, both cameras have 3rd party adapters available so you can use legacy lenses from other manufacturers.  But the drawback is that with most adapters, you lose auto focus and all other automation.  There are exceptions to that with some manufacturers.  

There are currently more lenses available for the M4/3 system, but really, there is nothing lacking from the Fujifilm system except a lens with a focal length longer than 300mm (~e). But, Fujifilm says, that is coming with a 150-600mm (~e) zoom being developed.  Olympus has a 600mm F/4 (~e) pro quality lens under development also. 

One benefit of the Olympus system is that you can use 4/3 format lenses, which retain auto focus and all other automation.  They, for the most part, are excellent lenses and work well on the E-M1.  I have an Olympus 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 SWD lens that gives me the equivalent of 100-400mm f/2.8-3.5 and the images are excellent, even wide open.  I also have the Olympus 1.4x tele-converter which gives me, in effect, focal lengths of 140-560mm f/4-4.5.  I can attest that this combination is sharp, contrasty and highly resolves the subjects.  It focuses a tad bit slower than with native M4/3 lenses, but with the phase detect autofocus points on the E-M1's sensor, it does a nice job.  I have used it for photographing wildlife and birds and have come away with some excellent images.  As a bonus, these legacy 4/3 lenses are not that expensive!

Image Stabilization 

The E-M1 has a 5-way in-body-image-stabilization that is, in a word, extraordinary!  I can't say enough good things about this feature.  Over the past three years, I have made images that I could not have made with any other camera without a tripod.  Not need to buy lenses with IS built in as, in effect, every lens has IS.

The X-T1 has image stabilization built into their zoom lenses.  There is no image stabilization built into their prime lenses.  I wish there were.  That is kind of a big negative to me. Of course, I'm getting older and I can really appreciate the image stabilization.  If you are younger, it may not make a difference to you.  Because of this, I will most likely stay with Fujifilm zoom lenses and only buy primes if absolutely necessary.

Canon has started including IS in their prime lenses over the past couple of years.  Good for them!  All manufacturers, in my opinion, should do that as well.

Focus 

For a couple of reasons, I think the E-M1 has a better focusing system.  To me, it is faster and more versatile.  The E-M1 allows me to track a subject around the frame on continuous focus where the X-T1 will not.  I'll explain the difference. Additionally, with the X-T1, it aggravates the heck out of me in continuous focus mode that the frame "jiggles" continuously when trying to focus.  I'm not sure how else to describe it.  You can't tell if at what you are aiming the focus point is or is not in focus.  I have no idea why it does that, but it is aggravating.  I have never owned another camera that does this.

The Olympus has 81 focus points while the Fujifilm has 49 focusing points.  Both cameras allow me to move the focus points around with custom function buttons, but the Olympus allows me to program a function button to "re-center" the focus indicator with one push, which I use both on the E-M1 and my Nikons.  I really appreciate that feature.  It cuts down on getting that focus point back in the middle for the next exposure.  Little things like that make a difference to me.

Update: While playing with the camera, I just discovered that the camera will recenter the focus point.  When the focus point is active (highlighted in green), if you press the "Back" button, the focus point will recenter.  The caveat is the focus point has to be active, which means that after making your exposure, you have to press one of the D-Pad buttons to get the point highlighted, then just press the Back button to recenter it.  Not quite as easy as a function button to do this, but better than pushing the D-Pad buttons over and over to manually recenter it.  I'm still discovering things about this camera and it continues to surprise me.

As far as "S", single, focus mode, they both focus fast, but I think the E-M1 locks on a bit more quickly.  I don't have empirical data on the speed, but you kind of get a sense when using both cameras extensively.  The E-M1 seems faster, anyway.  

Both allow you to change the size of the focus point(s)—the Olympus has 2 sizes, the Fujifilm 5 sizes.  But, Olympus allows you to choose how many points are in play, while the X-T1 only allows you to choose one point or, with area focus selected, some point that the camera selects for you.  I guess Fujifilm likes to surprise us on which focus point the camera will decide to choose.  

Both have face recognition.  The Olympus goes further and allows you to choose a left eye, right eye or closest eye, while there is no such option in the X-T1.

Both have phase detect focus sensors built into the imaging sensor, which helps with focus.  I think, as a rule, you will see both companies expand that feature in future cameras.

Both have good manual focus assist modes.  The X-T1 has more assist modes than does the E-M1.  I use focus peaking as well as image magnification on both cameras.

The Olympus has a touch screen LCD which allows the photographer to touch the screen where he or she wants the camera to focus only or focus and make an immediate exposure.  I like that feature when the camera is tripod mounted.  I think it works pretty well.

Menu System  

The E-M1's menu system is too complicated for me.  I know, I know, I'm old! LOL  I had to use this camera for about months in order to tacitly memorize everything that is in the menus and where to find them quickly. The other side of that issue is customization at the extreme level, enough to accommodate any photographer.  The X-T1 has a much better menu system, in my opinion.  Features are easier to find and change because it doesn't have as much customization.  You choose which is right for you.

Even though the E-M1 has a Super Control Panel (SCP), the Q-Menu on the X-T1 is better.  It is programmable and faster to make changes.  The E-M1's SCP has 21 items immediately available to the user, but they cannot be changed out nor moved.  The X-T1's Q-Menu has 16 items showing, which can be swapped  for others or moved around the menu.  I removed some of the default options on the X-T1 and replaced them with other functions which I would use more often.  I can't do that on the Olympus.

Even though the E-M1's LCD is a touchscreen, you still have to use a button first to activate changes on the SCP, which semi-negates the touch option.  But the touch option is the way to go.  Much easier.

Drying Clothes in the Rain (click to enlarge)
Olympus E-M1, Lumix 35-100mm lens, 1/40th sec. @ f/9; ISO 200

Controls and Layout  

I prefer the X-T1's controls and layout, with one exception.  Simple as that.  I come from the old, manual camera days of everything being changed with dials.  There is a certain familiarity with those old manual-style controls.  That being said, I can actually use the E-M1's controls faster AND the E-M1 has more controls available because of the number of buttons and switches that bring them up on the LCD.  

The E-M1's controls are more customizable because they are electronic and not mechanical.  For example, in manual exposure, I have the front command dial in the E-M1 programmed for changing aperture settings and the rear for changing shutter speed, just as it is on my Nikons.  That helps in not having to think about where things are when switching between camera systems and when quickly having to change settings.  In either aperture priority or shutter priority, I have the rear dial programmed for exposure compensation.  Same place in both modes.  That also helps to quickly modify my exposure when necessary.  All I need to remember is that right thumb moves the exposure compensation dial, which I can do with just my thumb and not have to grab with my thumb and index finger as I have to do with the X-T1.

With the X-T1, I like the aperture ring on the lens, as my left hand is right there to move it.  But with the shutter speed dial, I have to remove my hand from the grip to change it.

I wish Fujifilm would have put marked aperture dials on their variable zoom lenses like every manufacturer had done in the past.  It is easily doable if they made it a mechanical connection instead of an electronic one.

I like the layout of the controls of the X-T1 better also.  

Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) AND Rear LCD

I have shot both cameras side-by-side numerous times.  Although everyone says the EVF in the X-T1 is the biggest, fastest and best of any mirrorless camera, I found them (when actually looking through them back and forth, back and forth for comparison) to be about the same size and speed. The differences, to me, are minor.  However, I think I like the EVF on the Olympus better.  It seems brighter and better reflects reality to me.  Just my preference and my having used it for over a year, I suspect.  

Both viewfinders reflect exposures.  By that I mean if you are underexposing, your image will be dark in the EVF.  If you are overexposing, the image will be washed out.  After a while, even without the histogram in the EVF, you can adequately judge your exposure just by eyeballing it in the viewfinder.  However, I find I can do that more easily with the E-M1, but again that may be because I have been using it for over a year now.

Fujifilm did build one new feature into their EVFs, that is notable.  When you rotate the camera to a vertical position, the display of shutter speed, etc., inside also rotates so that it stays at the bottom as if you were shooting horizontal.  Nice!  Every camera manufacturer which produces cameras with EVFs should adopt that.

Bottom line—both EVFs are excellent.  Both have minimal lag times.  You would be pleased with either, if you like EVFs.

Both have large, clear LCDs that allow one to see and change functions easily.  Both allow the photographer to adequately program when and whether or not to toggle the LCD/EVF according to your needs.  Both LCDs tilt but neither swivel.  The Olympus LCD is a touch screen.  The Fujifilm's is not.

Light Meter 

Both have light meters that are excellent.  Both can be changed from spot to center-weighted to "matrix," for lack of a better word.  I have noticed, and I don't know if it is only with my particular cameras, that the X-T1 will want to give about 1/3 stop more exposure at normal and low light levels, but equal exposure at higher light levels.

Exposure Compensation 

The X-T1 will only allow 3 exposures at a maximum of 1 EV (f/stop) apart.  Go figure? Why only three? The E-M1 will allow 5 frames up to 1 EV apart or 7 frames up to .7 EV apart.  I use the 5 frame option often when I need to bracket exposures.  Three is not adequate, in my opinion.

You can "hack" around this limitation, if your camera is on a tripod, by manipulating the exposure compensation dial (first set of three exposures set at -3 exp. comp., then second set at +2 or +3 exp. comp., depending upon how wide a dynamic range you need). But it won't work if the camera is handheld.

Shutter 

The X-T1 has an electronic shutter that allows one to exceed the maximum mechanical shutter speed of 1/4000th second.  I can see that being helpful, for me, on rare occasions.  But there is always the issue of "rolling shutter" on moving objects with an electronic shutter.  The E-M1's shutter natively goes to 1/8000th second, if you ever need it.  I rarely need a shutter speed that fast.

If you use long shutter speeds, it is easier to access those long shutter speeds in the Olympus.

Shooting Speed 

The X-T1 can expose 8 frames per second and track focus at that speed.  Their slower continuous speed is 3 frames per second.  I have tried it and it works pretty well.  

The E-M1's slower sequential exposure setting is variable and goes up to 6.5 frames per second and it will focus track, again fairly well, moving objects up to that 6.5 frames per second.  The camera will also fire at 10 frames per second, but will not track focus at that high speed.  Olympus, in the next couple of weeks, is getting ready to release updated firmware for the E-M1 (v.3.0) that will allow the camera to focus track at 9 frames per second, just besting the X-T1.  We'll have to see how good it works.  I'm hoping better than mirrorless cameras in general.

In either case, the hit rate for locking on objects at those fast shooting speeds is woeful compared to my Nikon D810.  But they will improve with time.

Battery Life 

The Olympus has better battery performance.  But with either camera, take extra batteries.  I carry three when I go out.

Even understanding that, the X-T1's battery indicator goes "red" really quickly without much warning.  That can cause you to not know a battery change is needed shortly and you could run out of battery power unexpectedly, thus losing images in a fast changing situation.

Impromptu portrait of my younger granddaughter Emilie, age 2, from
across the lunch table (click to enlarge)
X-T1, 18-55mm lens @ 51.45 mm (~e); 1/50th sec. @ f/3.6; ISO 400

Special Features 

Olympus provides a feature that I believe no other manufacturer has.  It is enabled through "Live Time" and "Live Bulb."  Let me explain.  Say you wanted to make an image at night.  You can attach your E-M1 or E-M5 to a tripod, adjust your aperture and ISO as appropriate, then set it for Live Time or Live Bulb.  Then, when you press the shutter, you look at the rear LCD and watch your image appear.  Like magic!  In Live Time you press the shutter at the start of the exposure and then, again press it when you want the exposure to end.  With Live Bulb, as long as you hold your exposure with a remote release or hold the shutter button down, the shutter will continue to stay open.  I've only used it a few times, but when I have used it, I really appreciated not having to make exposure after exposure, guessing at what is the right exposure for my night shots.  With this feature, I open the shutter, watch the image appear on the LCD, then close the shutter when I see it is perfectly exposed.  All manufacturers should offer such a feature.

Both cameras have numerous special modes for special effects.  I don't use those, but I thought I would mention them if you have interest.  From what I have seen, they are interesting and work well.  I just don't use them.

I suspect I could write more about both of these competent tools, but you get the idea. Both cameras are wonderful tools that will serve you well.  There are differences, strengths and weaknesses in both.  You have to decide which camera has the greater number of strengths and/or fewer weaknesses that are meaningful to you.  Or, you can be like me and own and use both!

Final Words  

What is my preference?  I want to pick the Fujifilm X-T1 because of its larger, APS-C sized sensor, but I can't.  The RAW conversion thing is just too big of an issue for me right now.  If Adobe fixes the demosaicing issues with Lightroom 6, I could easily go with the X-T1 as my primary system.

Right now, overall and considering everything, I prefer the Olympus E-M1 over the Fujifilm X-T1.  Why?  My photographic satisfaction all comes down to image quality and the time and effort it takes to achieve it.  

For the X-T1, I have to spend a lot of time on a good percentage of my images exporting from Lightroom into Photo Ninja, extracting the detail, then re-importing back to Lightroom, then fine tune the image before I'm done.  The key words in that sentence are a good percentage.  Too many and too much time, I'm afraid.

For the Olympus, I don't have to do that.  But, I have to export images shot at ISO 1600 and above into a 3rd party program, eliminate the noise, then re-import them back into Lightroom.  The difference being I rarely use ISO 1600 and above (4% of the time).  So it makes more sense, time wise, to use the Olympus to achieve the image quality I find satisfying to me.  Yes, I can and have taken my Olympus system out as my primary system on several extended road trips as well as other wanderings.  I have no issue with its image quality being on a professional level as well as allowing me to do the types of photography I regularly practice.

So there you have it.  You decide for yourself.  Both are good cameras and I will keep both for the foreseeable future.  I hope you can and find happiness!

As I began this post, I'll end it.  I would really like to have a "Fujymus OM-X E-T1" so I could have the best of both of these fine instruments of imaging.

Thanks for looking.  Enjoy!

Dennis Mook

Many of my images can be found at www.dennismook.com.  Please pay it a visit.  I add new images regularly.  Thank you.


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