How Does the Fujuifilm X-T1 Handle?

Fujifilm X-T1, 18-55 kit lens @ 24.3mm (36.4mm ~e); 1/1000th sec. @ f8.0; ISO 200
RAW file converted in Lightroom 5.7.1 using Pro Neg S set in Lightroom, very few adjustments made
Lots of detail in the highlights and shadows; no color adjustments
(click to enlarge)

To me, second only to the quality of images a camera can potentially produce, is how the camera handles.  Usability.  How does camera feel in one's hands?  Does it feel well built, solid and of high quality?  Does the camera fit my hands well?  Too big?  Too small?  Shape is awkward to hold?  How are the controls?   Are the controls easily found and changed?  Does the camera feel natural and intuitive to use? Does the shutter button fall naturally under my index finger when holding the camera as I normally would?  Are there sufficient features available in order to meet my photographic needs?  How easy is it to access and change my most used features?  Will the way the camera is programmed to operate cause you to change the way you are used to using your cameras?  Are there function buttons available to be programed?  Are there enough function buttons?  Are the function buttons easily accessed?  All those things and more will either make me want to use the camera or leave it behind.

After using the Fujifilm X-T1 for a month now, I think I can answer some of those questions—for me.  My answers may not necessarily be your answers.  So, take my answers with a grain of salt as your hands may be a different size, you may need and want differing control layouts, you need and use different features than I do, etc.  I throw out these questions so you can think things through when planning to buy a new camera and spend all that hard earned money.

On first picking up the X-T1, to me it feels well built and of high quality.  Grasping it as I do every other camera, I find the shutter button does not naturally fall under my index finger.  It is located on top of the camera body and all my other cameras for the past several years have the shutter button on top of the grip which extends out from the front of the camera itself.  Since the grip doesn't rise to the top of the X-T1 body, placing the shutter button forward is not an option for this particular camera.  Something for Fujifilm to think about in their next iteration of cameras.  This change in shutter button position causes me to have to adapt my grip so I can easily find and press the shutter.  Not a big deal, but it does feel a bit foreign.

The off-on switch is perfect for me.  I like the position of the exposure compensation dial. It is easily accessible but a bit difficult to move with just my thumb.  For comparison, on my Olympus E-M1, I can easily adjust the exposure compensation with just my thumb. With my Nikons, I press a button with my finger and simultaneously rotate the command dial, which I can do without removing my eye from the viewfinder.  With the X-T1, I find myself having to remove my right hand from its gripping position (with finger on the shutter button) to grasp the exposure compensation dial with my thumb and index finger. That also means that I find myself taking the camera away from my eye.  Not optimum. Again, I found this not a big deal but it sure makes it easier to just rotate the dial with my thumb and my eye to the viewfinder.  Maybe it will loosen up with use over time.  I believe the +- rotation of the exposure compensation dial agrees with my other cameras, which I like.  Rotate left (push the dial to the left with my thumb) to reduce exposure; rotate right to increase exposure.  BUT..

The exposure increase/decrease for the exposure compensation dial is opposite the exposure increase/decrease direction of the aperture ring!  Why is that?  So, instead of being intuitive, I have to think or carefully look in the EVF to ensure I'm turning one or the other in the right direction for my intended exposure change.  It is not consistent.  Not a big deal, but a bigger deal.   I don't find that the aperture dial is programmable in order to change its direction to agree with the exposure compensation dial.  Wish it was.

Since I have been using back-button focus for many, many years, I'm used to my right thumb pushing a "focus" activation button.  The default location of the AF-L button is too far to the right for me as I have to pull my hand back from the camera body in order to push it.  Fujifilm gives us the ability to switch the AE-L and AF-L buttons functions.  I changed them as it is easier for me to reach my thumb farther to the left and use the AE-L button for focus instead of pulling my hand back to engage the AF-L button as it is placed on the camera body by the engineers.

As I just said, I have been using back button focusing for many years.  I prefer not to have the shutter button associated with focusing. I like the shutter button to just lock the exposure (on half press) and trip the shutter.  On my Nikons, I place the camera on "continuous focus" so as I press the focus button on the back, the camera can not only focus and lock in on the subject, but if the subject starts to move, holding my thumb on the back button will continue to focus and accurately track the subject as I follow the subject. I can't find a way to do that on this camera.  The X-T1 allows me to back button focus in manual focus mode, but it locks the focus as if it were in "single" focus mode.  I have to repeatedly press the button if I want to refocus and follow a moving subject.  If anyone knows how to continuously back-button focus, let me know, please.  This is not a deal breaker, but just inconvenient for my established way of photographing.  The answer is to allow the user to choose whether or not to associate the shutter button with focus in any mode—continuous focus, single focus or manual focus.

I like the placement of all the buttons on the back of the camera.  The so-called "D-Pad's" buttons are woefully inadequate, however.  If the camera is up to your eye, you really have to feel for them to accurately find and press the one you want.  I have mine changed to only move the focus point as I try to move the focus point instead of my older method of focus and recompose.  (Over the years I had found that in some situations, the focus/recompose method allows the focus distance to be slightly off, thus reducing the sharpness of the image.)

To remedy the inadequacy of these buttons, I bought some Sugru moldable rubber.  It has the consistency of a soft clay when you first open the package.  You break off a small piece, mold it in the shape you need it, then stick it to a surface.  In 24 hours, it turns to a hard, but slightly pliable rubber.  You can buy it in several colors.  I bought a small package of black. Here is a link if you are interested.

What I did, was go to the manufacturer's site and watch the video on how best to use this substance.  For each of the D-Pad buttons, I broke off a tiny piece of Sugru, rolled it between my fingers into a oblong shape, then I gently placed it on each button and pressed into the shape I needed.  I took a toothpick and further shaped the Sugru to slightly flatten the top surface (on which I would normally push) and to ensure that the substance did not interfere with the pressing of the button itself.  In other words, I made sure the Sugru did not extend beyond the edges of each button.

After 24 hours, this works beautifully!  The Sugru raised the surface of the button between 1/8" and 1/4" and I can easily find and access each button without taking my eye from the viewfinder.  The substance feels just a bit "grippy" and not slick so my finger doesn't slide off.  I also put a little round piece on both the AE-L button and the AF-L button so they stick up from the camera body just a bit higher, also making them much easier to find.

The substance can later be removed if you don't like it or you don't like how you applied it the first time.  I had good success using this product.

To me, one of the outstanding features of the X-T1 is the menu system as well as the programmable Q-Menu.  The menu system is SO MUCH EASIER to use than the one in my E-M1.  I can't say enough about what a joy it is to quickly find and change even a rarely used setting.

The Q-Menu is a real delight.  I love that it is programmable.  I sat down and made a list of every option each button could be programmed.  Seems like there were probably 20 or more.  I then picked out my top 16. After that, I prioritized which ones I want toward the top of the Q-Menu—in other words, my most frequently used controls—and placed them across the top row, then worked my way down through the Q-Menu to program the rest in priority order.  A great option!

Each important camera setting is immediately available on the Q-Menu where I can find it quickly.  If I find I change my way of working, I can always go in and reprogram the Q-Menu to accommodate any changes I need.  Again, a great option.

Speaking of programing the Q-Menu.  The first thing I did when I received the camera was to upgrade the firmware to version 3.0, which allow the Q-Menu to be programmed along with many, many other improvements to be realized.  This seems like an entirely different camera then when I first bought one 11 months ago.  I cannot say enough for Fujifilm's corporate philosophy of improving firmware of current and past cameras as well as adding new features.  Every camera manufacturer should take a hint from Fujifilm. This philosophy breeds rabid customer loyalty.  Fujifilm exceeds customer expectations in that they provide a service customers, in the past, never expected.

The focus assist works really well in conjunction with the manual focus option.  I use it with the small red focus peaking.

Speaking of focus.  I find the camera focuses pretty quickly.  I don't have any issues or complaints with focus speed.  It is not as fast as my $3300 Nikon D810 with its sophisticated focusing system (same system that is in the D4s), but it better not be for the price difference!  That being said, I also like the ability to change the focus point size as needed for individual circumstances. 

One of the new options Nikon included with the D4s and D810 is "group" focusing.  That is a marvelous focusing option which is highly accurate and allows the photographer to more easily track a moving subject than one could with only a single focus point.  Group gives you 5 focus points—above, left, right and below your traditional center focus point.  If Fujifilm could incorporate that feature, one could fully reduce the size of the all focus points for better accuracy, but still give the photographer an "overall" greater focusing target.  Just wishful thinking as I have now standardized on "group" focusing on my D810.

There are two aspects I don't like about the focus system in the X-T1.  First, the viewfinder acts funny when in continuous focus and I really can't tell if on what I have placed the focus spot, is or is not in focus!  This is aggravating.  It doesn't visually lock in. When I make the image it is in focus, but one can't tell before pressing the shutter.  Faith, I guess is what you have to go on for the continuous focus function.  If anyone knows how to solve that, please pass it on to the rest of us.

The other focus issue is the focus point not being able to track a subject around the EVF. I use that quite often for moving subjects.  I'm hoping, sometime in the future, Fujifilm enacts that kind of functionality.  If you haven't used it, it works by placing the focus point on the subject and locking in the focus, either by shutter button or back button focus.  Then as the subject may move around the frame, the focus point will track the subject and focus jumps from one point to the next to the next.  In my Nikons and Olympus it works pretty well.  Better in the Nikon, of course, but again, the camera cost over $3k.

I don't mind the ISO dial requiring holding down the center button.  It is inconvenient, but I quickly got used to that requirement.  The rotating dial below the ISO dial seems to be oddly programmed.  Typically the S would be first, the Cl, CH, Self-timer, etc.  For whatever reason, Fujifilm decided to program the BKT first, then CH, CL, S, etc.  Kind of backwards to me.  But not really an issue.

I did accidently turn my light meter mode dial when turning the shutter speed dial, in one instance.  I was using the camera on manual mode and frequently turning the shutter dial while trying to keep my eye in the viewfinder.  I saw some irregular light shifts in the brightness of the EVF, then noticed the light meter mode dial had been moved.  I'll have to watch that in the future.

I don't mind a single SD card slot.  It appears as though the engineers at Fujifilm initially were going to put two memory card slots in the camera and decided on only one.  It would be nice to have a second as in other cameras as I have configured the second card as an automatic backup to the first card.  Not a big deal—unless your memory card fails while you are out photographing!

I like the sound of the shutter.  Relatively quiet.  I also like the optional electronic shutter and the ability to turn all sounds off in the camera.  Nice touch for special circumstances.

The function buttons are okay.  I just wish the video record button was programmable since I never use video.  It is located in prime real estate and it is a shame that I can't use it for something else.

I still find it hard to believe that Fujifilm would only allow +- 1 f/stop in bracketing.  But, that might have to do with the bracketing ability for film simulations and other bracketing.  There may be a technical reason.  I would certainly like the option of at least 5 exposures.  I know that Fujifilm has repeatedly been asked to increase this function. Let's hope they do.

The EVF is very nice.  No complaints.  A lot has been written about how good the EVF is and I have nothing to add.  The histogram in the EVF is not as good as the one in the E-M1.  I wish it were just a bit larger and more sensitive.

The rear LCD is perfect.  Also, I like Fujifilm's options for switching between the EVF and LCD.  Works well in my opinion.

The tripod socket is off center, but that doesn't affect me much as I normally buy and use a Really Right Stuff L-bracket, when then centers it.

I have not yet used the small flash unit that is included with the camera.  I don't often use a flash and when I need one, I normally don't pick up my Olympus (or X-T1).  I normally pick up my Nikon with the Nikon flash for its sophistication, power and accuracy.  So, I don't anticipate using the little flash, except under circumstances where I may need some fill light on a sunny day.

I only have the kit lens and I think it performs well.  I have owned some of the best Leica, Nikon and Canon lenses available in the past and this lens, while not stellar, certainly does a good job in rendering details, microcontrast and color palate.

Enough for now.  I have a running list of likes and dislikes that I have made that I will publish in the near future.  But for now, I'm happy with the camera, even though I have not yet touched on the real 800 lb. gorilla—demosaicing the Fujifilm RAW (RAF) files so as to glean all the detail available as well as keep the files from rendering fine foliage as a watercolor painting and fine detail (such as small branches) with what appears to be black lines outlining them.  But that is coming, so stay tuned.

So far, a very nice camera in many ways.  I'll keep photographing to further my comfort level with it as well as better know any quirks. After all, the idea is to produce the best images possible from any given camera.

Thanks for looking.  Enjoy!

Dennis Mook

Many of my images can be found at www.dennismook.com.  Please pay it a visit.  I add new images regularly.  Thank you.


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