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| RAW image with only white balance tweaking and slight brightening adjustments; no noise reduction or sharpness applied. (click to enlarge) |
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| 100% view of the image at the top of this post (click to enlarge) |
WARNING: If you don't read any more of this post, you need to clearly understand now that applying too much in-camera noise reduction destroys image detail. You will not be able to recover that detail later.
I made several images with my X-T2 so I could see exactly what the effect was when the noise reduction setting was set at every setting between -4 and +4. Here is how I constructed the test.
X-T2 with 50-140mm f/2.8 lens on a tripod, image stabilization Off.
ISO 6400 (high enough to generate a decent amount of noise for comparison)
Set for RAW + JPEG
Aperture Priority F/8 (excellent image quality at that aperture on the 50-140)
Shutter speed 1/800th second
Film Simulation set to "Ns"
Auto white balance
Dynamic Range Auto
Highlight Tone 0
Shadow Tone 0
Color 0
Sharpness 0
Noise Reduction varied for each exposure from -4 to +4; 9 total examples
Color Space Adobe RGB
Grain Effect Off
No Lightroom export sharpening used at all as I wanted you to see what the images looked like directly out of the camera.
This is one of the images I made at ISO 6400 with each setting of in-camera noise reduction. You can get a good idea how the in-camera JPEG settings affect apparent sharpness, produces sharpening artifacts and influences overall image quality. I suggest you do your own tests so you can decide if and how much of it you may want to use. Click to enlarge each image as it makes the differences much easier to see. Then look at the side-by-side comparisons below.
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| -4 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| -3 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| -2 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| -1 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| 0 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| +1 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| +2 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| +3 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| +4 noise reduction in-camera (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; -4 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; -3 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; -2 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; -1 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; 0 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; +1 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; +2 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; +3 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
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| ISO 6400 RAW with no noise reduction on left; +4 JPEG noise reduction on right (click to enlarge) |
Here is a side-by-side comparison of the minimum and maximum amounts of noise reduction that can be applied to JPEG images in-camera.
Here are some of the conclusions I reached.
First, it is obvious to me that even at the -4 setting, noise reduction is being applied in-camera to all JPEG images. It appears to me that there is no way to turn all noise reduction off when shooting JPEGs. That is too bad, as far as I'm concerned as it takes some of my choices away. Look at the differences between the RAW image with no noise reduction and -4 on the associated JPEG, which is the minimum setting for noise reduction. It is obvious that a significant amount of noise reduction is being applied.
Second, I don't have any proof but I believe Fuji is applying some in-camera color noise reduction to the RAW files as well at all ISOs, It is not so apparent in this particular image, but in many other high ISO images I've made, I am seeing almost no color noise compared to other digital cameras I've owned. I can find some in some images (look at the metal grate in the images above), but in others made at high ISOs, I don't see any. Just my speculation.
Third, the addition of noise reduction quickly removes a lot of detail. Additionally, when applying a significant amount, in this image example, the bricks lose all detail and look like a watercolor painting. The downspout also losing almost all detail. I would recommend keeping noise reduction at a minimum. I would hesitate to use any setting more than -2. I plan to keep my noise reduction setting at -4, then apply any that I think I need in my editing software (Lightroom, Photoshop, NIK, Topaz), which are most likely more sophisticated noise reduction algorithms and can be applied only in areas in which it is needed and not applied equally to the entire image.
Fourth, when looking at many high ISO images, the noise I see in my ISO 6400 RAW files is the least objectionable noise I have ever seen in any of the many digital cameras I have owned. It appears more like uniform film grain and has a somewhat pleasant appearance (if noise can have a pleasant appearance in your opinion) as compared to the random noise I dealt with in my other digital cameras. I have no idea how or why this happens, but I'll speculate that it is a result of the non-Bayer, X-Trans sensor configuration. In any case, I find myself leaving some of the noise in my high ISO images as, again, I don't find it objectionable and I keep any fine image detail intact.
I hope you found this experiment as valuable as did I. Again, the better you know your gear, the more comfortable you are with it and the better decisions you can make when changing settings according to conditions.
Thanks for looking. Enjoy!
Dennis A. Mook
All content on this blog is © 2013-2017 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.
Dennis--
ReplyDeleteI've found these last two posts, on in-camera JPEG sharpness and noise, particularly useful and enjoyable. Even though I still shoot Olympus, they provide a model for me to use to test my own system, and even though I don't use Fuji, I found your detailed results interesting! Thanks.
Walter Foreman
Thank you Walter. I'm toying with the idea of acquiring another Olympus. If I do, I may conduct the same tests on that camera as well.
DeleteThanks for performing this test Dennis.
DeleteI have also noticed that there is very little color noise in raw files from the X-T2 and even from the X-E1 and X-T10.
I can see that a setting of -2 or less for in camera noise reduction would be a good target for high ISO shooting. I wonder if the degree of noise reduction automatically changes in camera based on the ISO setting (i.e., would a +4 NR setting smear the image to the same degree at an ISO of, say 800)?
Can I get the link for the sharpness comparisons? Thanks
DeleteFrancis
ReplyDeleteFully agree with Dennis comment. VERY useful experiments and sensible conclusions. I own an XT-1 and will also set the noise reduction to -4, hoping that your results translate to the X-trans II sensor and firmware. I am also thinking of aquiring a u4/3 camera: a panasonic gx 80/85 with the 12-32mm zoom and the 20mm f1.7 pankake. Maybe not the same quality as the Olympus, but I am here looking for the least bulky set for travelling with a decent IQ, the flexibility of an ILC, an good EVF and a sound ergonomy. The camera +2 lenses would weigh less than 600gm and fit into quite a smal bag. But I am sure I would miss many things from the fuji's: film emulation, clean high iso (or with a "pleasant" grain), shooting experience, wonderful EVF, lens quality etc...
Francis, thanks for your comment. If my memory serves me well, I think the X-T1 only has settings from -2 to +2. You may want to run a few short tests at high ISOs to ascertain if -2 on the X-T1 translates to -4 on the X-T2.
DeleteDennis, thanks for your insightfull series on sharpness and noise(reduction). With Fuji-RAW I never use colornoisereduction, so I agree that some in-camera reduction is used. With my first generation XE1 little (or no?) luminancenoise seemed to be used in-camera. With XE2 and JPG at high iso, I get detailsmearing (This is much discussed on the internet). Indeed, setting iso lowest does not remove all noisereduction, which is a pity. You should be able to schoose by yourself I think. I am a bit shocked to see how quickly detail gets affected even at minus 4 noisereduction. But that's pixelpeeping. On normal prints the problem is less. Still, at high iso I Always go for RAW. Ton
ReplyDeleteTon, thanks for taking time to comment. I,too, was rather surprised as to how much in-camera noise reduction affects subject detail. I will keep mine at -4 from now on and if I need to reduce noise I will do so in Lightroom, Photoshop or one of the other plug-ins. Also, I like to apply it only where it is necessary and not the entire image.
DeleteDennis, just caught up with your recent blogs. AWESOME. Some of the most useful articles I have seen in a long time. Camera just got pulled out of the bag to switch to -4. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteI also noticed that the raw ones have a wash and a processing. The solution I have found is to pass the raw through: http://www.iridientdigital.com/
ReplyDeleteThis way you get maximum detail and noise conservation. Try it, you'll tell me!
can you suggest your setting of film simulation for shootting portrait, street life, landscape ? Also white balance setting for each. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteDavid, I'll try but each photographer's preferences are different. Secondly, I don't shoot portraits or street photography so it is hard for me to comment on settings for them.
DeleteIn general, I shoot RAW + JPEG, but RAW is normally the file I edit. I include JPEG as Fuji embeds a small JPEG into the RAW images and one can't magnify it to 100% to check focus accuracy when using the LCD. Only if you include a Fine JPEG can you magnify the image on your LCD to 100%. That being said, sometimes I just use a JPEG for posting on the web, but my stock photography submission are all from RAW files.
I use auto white balance (which I usually apply a minor correction in Lightroom with no problems; overall it is pretty good) and my base film simulation is Provia with -2 shadows and +1 highlights. I like open detailed shadows and a bit more contrast in the highlights, similar to what film would give me. Noise reduction is turned down as far as it can go and I set my sharpening to +1. Of course, none of these parameters apply to the RAW image, only the JPEG. Normally, I have my camera set to a single focus point, continuous low frames per second (5), and in AF-S mode.
For landscapes and general photography, those are my usual settings. However, if I see a scene in which I think the Velvia setting will enhance it, I will change my camera settings to Velvia, but I always seem to find the yellows of foliage are just too saturated for my taste so I slightly desaturate those in Lightroom.
For portraits I would recommend using the Astia film simulation. I always try to minimize contrast and saturation in-camera as I can always increase contrast and saturation later in Lightroom, but if an image is too contrasty, you may not be able to get it back to the way you wanted it. Astia is Fuji's film for low saturation, good flesh tones and pleasing contrast.
As for street photography, well, I'm a black and white kind of guy when it comes to that. So when I do something like that, I use the Acros film simulation. Typically, in the film days, a yellow-green filter over the lens made the most pleasing flesh tones so you can experiment from there.
I hope this was helpful. If you have any other questions or I left something unanswered or unclear, don't hesitate to email me and I will be happy to answer more of your questions.
Thanks so much for this article. It was exactly the information I was looking for. I'm quite new to my Fuji and was having trouble understanding how some of the in-camera functions affected my images. Thumbs up on the blog! :)
ReplyDeleteEmiko, glad to have helped. If there is any other questions I can help you with, you can email me. My email can be found on my website, dennismook.com.
DeleteThanks for your sharing but still confusing minus or not.My camera is x-t10 and mostly shoot street photography.
ReplyDeleteBay No, thank you for your question. The bottom line is in-camera noise reduction is only applied to JPEGs. If you shoot only RAW, it doesn’t matter. If you shoot JPEGs, in-camera noise reduction dramatically reduces detail in your image. My suggestion is to turn in-camera noise reduction to its lowest level or off, then apply only as much as necessary in your editing software, such as Lightroom.
DeleteThank you very much for your simply explanation Dennis.
DeleteThank you so much all! best affordable camera
ReplyDeleteThank you Dennis, worthwhile information makes me feel more confident to use these settings
ReplyDeleteAva, if you go to Adobe’s website, look for the Adobe DNG Converter. If you download it, you can convert your RAF files to DNG and Photoshop will be able to read them. DNG is Adobe’s version of your RAW and you will keep all the versatility of those files. I will be happy to answer your questions if you are having problems. Go to my website, www.dennismook.com, and my email address can be found there. Email me with your questions and I’ll try to answer them and get you on your way.
DeleteIf you are shooting with JPEGs, one thing I found is to set all of my shadow and highlight settings in my X-T2 to -2 and the noise reduction and sharpening to -4. Your JPEGs will look bad, but you will be able to add appropriate contrast, sharpening and noise reduction in Photoshop. These settings will minimize any quality losses and give you greater flexibility in adjusting your files to your liking. In other words you can always add contrast but if contrast is too high and you lose highlight or shadow detail when taking your photos, often times you can never get it back.
Thank you so much Dennis. Just wanted to show my appreciation for your complete and precise explanation here about Noise Reduction Settings on Fujifilm camera. I searched 2 days for a straight answer on what the values mean for this setting, but none of them offered an confident answer, especially on what the negative values mean.
ReplyDeleteOne minor feedback about the Magazine view of your website. It would be great if the dates can also include the year.
Thanks for your comment. I’m happy I could be of assistance. The blog is at the mercy of Blogger. There isn’t much I can do about certain things as Google controls much of the structure. I’ll see if there is a way the years can be added.
Delete