Monday, February 10, 2014

The Practical Difference (Part 2) between 20" X 24" (50X60cm) Prints from an Olympus E-M1 and Nikon D800E—None!

Test Image Used; Focus was on the side of the garage; All parts
of the image were identical, even the edges and corners
A few weeks ago, I wrote a post touting that if I wanted ultimate quality, I would always turn to my Nikon D800E.  Well, I think I may have been a bit premature in writing that statement.  I have now tested the Olympus E-M1 against the Nikon D800E in actual large prints versus looking at a computer screen, even at 1:1, and I am amazed!

So you think you can tell quality difference by looking at digital image files on a computer screen?  You may want to rethink your position.

My first test, a few days ago, was highlighted in a post you can read here looking for any practical differences from identical image files from the Olympus E-M1 and Nikon D800E enlarged to 16" X 20" (40 X 50 cm).  The images were printed by MPIX without any corrections or adjustments being made by them.  In closely examining the two enlargements, scrutinizing all parts of the prints under bright sunlight, I could not find a place where there was a visible difference in resolution, sharpness or quality.  The color, saturation and density also matched. Even the finest details and the subtleties of the subject were identical.  Additionally, I spent considerable time looking very closely at the edges and corners of the prints.  Still I couldn't see any differences.  Please read that post to see what equipment and procedures I used to make the identical images.

Last week, I decided to step it up a notch and run another test.  I wanted to see if there was a difference if I ordered bigger prints.  In this second test, I had 20" X 24" (50 X 60 cm) enlargements made by a professional lab with no added corrections applied. In other words, I made the best images I could in Lightroom 5 and they printed my files exactly as I sent them with no adjustments. Bay Photo Lab handled the prints in super manner.  I could not be more pleased with the quality of the prints, the speed and the customer service with Bay Photo or MPIX.  Both had very reasonable prices, too.  I've had MPIX print, mat and frame many "wall art" prints for me in the past.  But this was the first time I had used Bay Photo.  I can highly recommend both companies for your professional level work. (They also offer fully corrected enlargements if you are not editing on a fully calibrated monitor as well as many other services.)

Back to the second, and more demanding test.  I wanted to slightly expand the prior test to add one more factor.  I wanted to be able to compare the 36mp Nikon image file to the 16mp Olympus image file at native size and resolution for the bigger print size.  But I also wanted to find out if upsizing or uprezzing the Olympus image file to the same size as the Nikon image file would make any discernible difference in the enlarged prints.

For this additional aspect of the comparison test, I took the Olympus image, exactly as it was edited for the first test, and exported it out of Lightroom 5 and into Alien Skin Blowup 3, upsized the image to the same pixel measurements as the Nikon file, then imported it back into Lightroom 5.  Blow up 3 added, by default, a bit of edge sharpening to the file. I then exported that file with no additional editing or sharpening as a JPEG to be sent to Bay Photo with the original two image files I had sent to MPIX last week.

To sum it up, three image files were being sent.  The Nikon was the same image file as sent before.  Two Olympus image files were sent.  One was the original as sent before and the other was the same image file, but upsized to the exact same size as the Nikon file.

This test would look at the image files enlarged from 320 inches squared to 480 inches squared, a 150% increase in print area.  I thought that was a statistically significant increment and should show a discernible  difference.

I received the prints Friday, which Bay Photo overnighted by FedEx.  I couldn't wait to open the box to see how much of a difference I would now be able to see in the large prints.

I laid the three prints out on the floor in a room with diffused sunlight coming through several windows so it was very bright.  I looked very closely at all three prints, first at a distance of about 3 ft. and then on my hands and knees from about 12 inches away.  I thought for sure I would easily see a difference between the files, but on close inspection and re-inspection, I could not discern any difference.  They looked identical. There HAD to be a difference somewhere.  I kept looking.

Finally, after examining the prints over and over, I did see a minute difference.  The native Olympus file and the Nikon file still appeared to be identical in the prints—resolution, sharpness, color, contrast, etc. However, in some very fine details in the wood of the old garage, it appeared that the upsized Olympus file had more contrast or, most probably, additional sharpening applied to the extremely fine details.  I believe this to be the result of the edge sharpening of the image file in Alien Skin Blow Up 3.  It did not degrade the image in any way, the tiny fine details in a couple of places looked a bit over sharpened.  I mean I really had to look hard to find any differences.  My conclusion is if you don't like that effect, uncheck the box in Blow Up 3.  Simple as that.

On Saturday, I had two long experienced photographer friends of mine look at the prints.  They agreed that the prints were essentially equal in quality and, looking at them without being told the three were a test from different image files, one would come to the conclusion that all three were printed from the same file.  My analysis was supported by them.

The simple fact is, that if you have to look really hard to find anything, any differences at all, even as large as 20" X 24" (50 X 60 cm) prints, then as far as I'm concerned the test shows all three files equal in color fidelity, resolution, contrast, saturation, sharpness with no apparent noise.  If you look at the those large prints even from 2 ft. away, you can't see the additional sharpening applied to the upsized image file.  That is how identical they are.  Remember, this is not a high ISO or worst case scenario test.  This is one test in one set of conditions.

My hat is off to Olympus for somehow getting incredible quality out of a sensor some say can never produce professional results.  YES IT CAN AND DOES!  Hats off to Alien Skin for producing a program that allows a photographer to increase the size of his or her image files with no noticeable loss in quality.

Again, if there is a flaw in my procedure, please advise where I went wrong.  My goal was to take two different file formats from two cameras with different sized sensors and different resolutions and make two identical enlargements.  So, a bit of comprise is necessary to make them the same overall size.  That meant cropping a bit on the horizontal dimension of the Nikon file (2 X 3 proportion) to match the shape of the Olympus file (4 X 3 proportion). The vertical dimension of both image files were kept uncropped.  The cropping came from the horizontal aspect of the Nikon file only otherwise it would have been a 20" X 30" enlargement instead of a 20" X 24" enlargement.  I believe the tests are valid and the comparison telling in the quality of the Olympus image quality.

My conclusion?  For most photographers and for most purposes, one can use a M4/3 system in lieu of an APS-C or full frame system and be confident that, under most circumstances (probably not racing or sports or the extreme ISO imagery, but the gap is closely with every new camera introduced) your images will meet your expectations and needs.  You can save money to buy additional gear, save your shoulder and back with the reduced weight as well as get everything into your airplane carry-on bag much more easily.

I would welcome your thoughts and comments.

Thanks for looking.  Enjoy!

Dennis Mook

Many of my images can be found at www.dennismook.com.  Please pay it a visit.  I add new images regularly.  Thank you.


All content on this blog is © 2014 Dennis A. Mook.  All Rights Reserved.  Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution.  Permission may be granted for commercial use.  Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

17 comments:

  1. Thanks for posting your comments, which are interesting, even if (for me) unsurprising. I've had prints made even larger (20" x 30") from my Olympus OM-D E-M5. They're tack sharp with great color. I'm now wondering: just how large a print can one make from the OM-D and still have it look completely sharp? Can one go as high as 40" x 60"??

    Thanks,
    Peter Mark
    Seattle, Washington

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    1. Peter, if I had the money and inclination, I would have a series of larger prints made just to see where the "break point" is and differences in quality are obvious. Thanks for the comment.

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    2. Thanks for this, Dennis. I found this article linked from the mu43 forum. I've recently had gallery prints from my E-M5 captures printed in 36x48 for public display in commercial buildings next to the state capital and I'm extremely pleased with the quality of the results. The printer said they had no difficulty and the images with my nose six inches away look as good as they do on my color calibrated Mac monitors. Honestly, I wasn't that surprised. I've had older Canon 5D and 1DmkIII shots blown up large before, and if the master image is a good image, the print will be good also. I've printed on an IPF 8300 so I am familiar with the process and how to get images ready for printing. The main reason people sometimes feel their "lesser" camera can't turn out prints they see from a pro using a big FF Nikon or Canon is the user's fault: their image wasn't as sharply focused to begin with, and usually it's because they were comparing a hand held image they took with that of a pro who used a very good tripod. So my advice is always: stabilize the camera as much as possible for any shot you want to make big, preferably with a tripod and use a delayed release or a remote shutter release.

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    3. Jeffrey, thanks for your comment and the information. Several individuals had asked me to get larger prints made for comparison to see at what size the difference is easily seen. Now I know that 36" X 48" is achievable with excellent results. That amazes me!

      I still can't get over how magical M4/3 cameras with their really high quality lenses perform. I don't know how anyone, who has not personally tried them, can validly criticize them. I have nothing but good things to say and will continue to advocate for the format.

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  2. Thanks Denis for sharing this experience.

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  3. Tozman, thank you for the comment. Much appreciated.

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  4. Many years ago, I bought one of the first 'affordable' DSLRs - the Canon EOS D30. It had a 3.1 Mp sensor. I fitted a Canon 50mm/f1.8 prime lens and took a picture of the rooftops of colleges from a church tower in Cambridge where I live in the UK. I had this image professionally printed by a photo lab up to 24x36 inches. The result was amazing and many of the people I showed to to assumed that it was from a medium format film camera. I also took a studio shot from the same camera and lens and cropped it down from 3.1 Mp to 0.78 Mp and had a very acceptable exhibition print when viewed from a reasonable viewing distance. Close examination would readily suggest that there wasn't sufficient information in the file to show realistic fine detail but, as I said, at normal viewing distances, nobody would know how many original pixels made up that image. My conclusion from my own experiments is that the quantity of pixels isn't as important as the quality of those pixels. I would expect the same from the OM-D and your work has proved this. Obviously, significant advances have been made with sensors and image processing since I bought that early camera and images from more modern cameras will look even better but it did establish for me that original image pixel count isn't the sole determinant of final image quality.

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  5. A very interesting article and would like a followup using perhaps 1600 ISO or higher. I use the EM-5 but don't have a FF camera any more to use for a test for myself - I got rid of my D3 as soon as I'd tried the Olympus :-)

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  6. Thanks for running the test. It pretty much backed up what I expected would be the case. For 80% to 90% of normal range images it becomes very difficult to distinguish between cameras when comparing side by side, and I suspect that this is probably true for many cameras even at lower price points. When not comparing side by side, I would say the percentage is much higher.

    Where something like the D800 has the advantage is in the 5% of cases where it does have better capabilities. You mentioned a few like high ISO, and likely an image with very fine detail that must be blown up quite large. The D800 also would likely produce a better image where a high dynamic range is needed.

    For me the question was simple, I've been moving to the E-M1, but I keep my Nikon D7000 for the one area where it is clearly superior (for the time being) and that is low light sports. Although I want to do some tests with the E-M1 and the 50-200 and hopefully the 40-150 to see if it can keep up.

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  7. Bob, after running this quick comparison, I really started to question the value of the reviews I read where much emphasis is put on image differences viewed on a computer monitor even at 1:1. I now believe that those who make great noise over minute differences in images, viewed as I just mentioned, are really doing everyone a disservice. For all practical purposes, those difference will never be seen unless huge, and I mean huge, prints are made. Too many people make buying decisions based upon these minute and irrelevant differences. They shouldn't. My position is that just about every digital camera made and sold today will produce technically excellent images under most circumstances. I believe it is much more important to make buying decisions based upon a) special needs such as shooting sports or astrophotography or such as well as the lenses being available that you will need and/or b) how the camera feels to you, how much you like the menus and such and if the camera is intuitive to your way of working. The image differences today in full frame, APS-C, M4/3 and even 1" sensors are minor for almost all uses.

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  8. A number of years ago, when Olympus stopped developing their 4/3rds dSLRs, I replaced my E-30 with a Canon 7D. In the interim, I have almost always picked up the Canon when I've gone hunting for images. This year, I injured a shoulder and found the weight of the Canon with two or three lenses simply too uncomfortable to carry over the two to three hour hikes that I generally take. As a result, I began to carry the E-30 again. Now, I find myself wondering why I switched.

    I think we are sometimes taken in by all the hype out there. Despite the age of the E-30, and it’s modest 12 MP sensor, when I look at the results, it produces images every bit as good as the Canon, and at some considerable weight savings. I am now looking at m43rds in a much more favourable light. Why not? If one can achieve essentially the same results at a third of the weight, carrying the Canon gear is silly.

    Anyway, thanks for the excellent article. You have helped me cut through some of the hesitation I was feeling about m43rds.

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  9. THANKS!
    I've had the Nikon d3100 for the last 4 years after attending courses for beginners.
    But I'd like to buy a lighter mirrorless to carry on with me during my trips and I'm studying on the Net as I don't want to waste my money. I'm not a professional so I'm looking for a medium-cost camera but the full-frame I'd like to have is quite expensive. Therefore I was looking for info about the Micro Four Thirds sensors and after reading reviews and reviews, I landed on your articles. Now I'm considering the purchase of the Olympus OM-D E-M10 II 'cause you convinced me (and I love the viewfinder even though it's electrical) :)
    Thanks a lot, Dennis!

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    1. Alice, thank you for your comment. You are absolutely correct to thoroughly research which camera is right for you for your needs and types of photography. Each camera and format is different. Each has its strengths and weaknesses as well. Each of us has to take into account which features are most important as well as cost. One of the most important aspects in today's complex digital cameras is how the menus work for you and how it feels in your hands. If the camera has all the right features but the menus are such that you can't find what you need to change settings, then it just doesn't work. Almost all digital cameras and lenses are terrific and can adequately serve one's needs so image quality has almost become secondary. Let me know if I can be of assistance. I'm always happy to help.

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  10. I'm also looking for a new camera, with hopefully better IQ than my Canon G1X. The cameras with the features that I want are all M43, but I have been wondering about their IQ. Your experiments Dennis, have swayed me toward M34 a bit, but I am not totally convinced. Here are links to two wildlife pictures, the first taken with an Olympus EM-1
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/johndunkle/29163281452/in/dateposted/
    and the second taken by a friend of mine with a Nikon D750
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/127133995@N05/30536687784/in/dateposted/
    To me, the Nikon 750 shot looks noticeably better, more life-like.

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    1. A couple things come to mind.

      First, my point in my blog post was that "in a print" things pretty much equalize. Things look significantly different on a computer screen than in a professionally made print. Digital noise and other defects one sees on a computer monitor don't show up in a print, even a large one.

      Second, the test was made under optimal lighting conditions and I am sure that FF will easily surpass M4/3 in poor lighting, for wildlife (however the focusing systems are getting really, really good in M4/3), extremely contrasty conditions, etc. Please don't read more into the test than I intended. Another point I was trying to make was to force individuals not to rule out certain gear out of hand, but to test it, see for themselves and buy what best fills their needs.

      Third, I think we are to the point where images made with almost any two different camera manufacturers' cameras can pretty much be duplicated with in-camera settings available as well as the sophisticated editing software that is available to us. Whether in sharpness, resolution, contrast, color palate or the overall "look," I think technology has become the great equalizer.

      In the examples you sent, I agree the Blue Tit looks more organic. However, it appears to me the Sparrow in the other image has too much clarity applied, thus (in my mind) making it look more digital, more crisp and less organic. I believe the look can easily be changed. But again, I think one can pretty much create duplicate looking files with programs such as Alien Skin Exposure X and other film simulation programs. Even Lightroom and Photoshop provide amazing tools today.

      One of the main reasons I moved from full frame to a smaller format, first to M4/3 and now to Fuji X-T2, is I wanted to go smaller, lighter, less expensive but keep excellent image quality. I had no beef with my Olympus files and will probably buy one of the new E-M1 MK II cameras. I really liked my E-M1 a lot. And... the lenses were terrific! The reason for the move to Fuji was I found the haptics and controls of the Fuji were much more intuitive to me and to my liking and I found myself using the Fuji much more than my Nikon D810 or my Olympus OM-D E-M1. However, I found the M4/3 gear easily fulfilled 95% of my needs, both personal and for stock photography.

      I hope this provided some clarity. If you wish to discuss it more, please send me an email (can be found on my website: www.dennismook.com) and I'll be happy to continue our conversation.

      Thank you for your comment. I appreciate the time you took to send it.

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