Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Preparing For A Long Road Trip 2016; Part III

Glacier, Alaska, U.S.A. (click to enlarge)
Nikon D300, Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 lens @ 112mm; 1/640th sec. @ f/11; ISO 200

I made this image from the deck of a cruise ship.  For our 14 day Alaska trip I took one camera
body, a high quality point and shoot camera as backup, the 18-200mm lens (all around travel lens), a 70-300mm lens,
a 12-24mm lens, a 60mm f/2.8 macro lens and a tripod.  I used the 18-200 for 95% of my images
and wished I had a monopod instead of a tripod.. On an organized cruise/tour independent photography
opportunities were, unfortunately, limited.
You are a photo enthusiast or passionate photographer, no matter what level of experience you have nor how expensive or what kind of gear you own.  You love the thought of combining a travel with photography.  You want to bring back some really good images from your upcoming trip.  You are excited and ready to go!  Now, how do you ensure you are fully prepared to capture those images and what final preparations do you make so you aren't disappointed upon your return?  Let's go through my process for my upcoming multi-week road trip that will take me from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific and back.

In the two previous posts, I mentioned a number of questions to ask yourself during your preparation.  Let's go through those with my answers for my upcoming trip.  

What are my photographic goals for this trip? 

In the case of my upcoming trip, the primary purpose is to explore the country, wander without much route planning, travel and meet ordinary people and see a variety of natural and man-made places to better understand and appreciate nature, our past, and spend some quality time with my wife as well as with some friends we will see along the way.  The goal is the experience, not necessarily photography.  Photography is secondary for this trip.  Photography is important to me, but it is not the primary goal of the trip.
What will be my photographic style be for this trip?  (all handheld, time for tripod work, up before dawn, out after dark, etc.)
Mostly handheld, but I will bring a tripod.  Much of our journey will be through small, picturesque towns and quaint harbors.  I shoot stock and fine art, so even though the primary goal of this trip is exploration, I always keep in mind that any image I find may be suitable for stock or fine art photography.  I can envision two types of photography--casual snapshot type of recording ( I was here and here is what I saw) and, when appropriate, get the big guns out to make some serious, studied images. 
I tend to use a tripod more now than in the past as I have gotten more meticulous in my technique over the years.  I learned a lesson from a previous trip.  I took a tripod on our two-week cruise/tour to Alaska and never once had the opportunity to use it.  But I sure wished I had my monopod as that would have been useful and quick.  Live and learn.

How long will I be gone?
About 3 weeks but we have no specific timetable.  There is very little agenda. We go where we decide to go and end up each day where we end up.  No timetable. 
How much time will I have to photograph?
As I see interesting images, I will stop and make the images.  I suspect that the photographic aspect of this trip will dovetail easily with our travels.  I know we will be visiting one major national park so I know I will go there during the golden hours primarily for photography.  Other than that, I don't have any expectation, at this point, that we will go anywhere just to photograph and spend hours doing it.  Photography will be in addition to our travels.  It is nice that photography easily dovetails with photography.
How will I feel if something goes wrong and I lose the photos through my own negligence or some external force?
I really want to bring back some good images but if something happened, it won't be devastating.  I'll live!  The answer, however, to not losing images you may have taken is to plan for contingencies and have backups for certain gear and processes.  I will be backing up my images nightly and keeping them a) on the original SDXC card, b) transferring them to Lightroom on my laptop and, c) putting a copy on a small, bus-powered portable external hard drive.  I like having three copies of everything—and keeping those copies in separate places.  It it gets to a point where I will have to reformat an SD card, I have a second portable hard drive that I can put into action and copy images to it as well.  Again, three places is better than two.
Have I researched the areas I will be traveling to know what opportunities I will encounter?  What gear am I planning on taking?
Yes.  I know that I will need a wide variety of focal lengths to capture everything from urban landscapes, grand landscapes, close-ups, and potentially wildlife.  I plan on taking my Fuji X-T2, X-T1, 10-24mm f/4 lens, 16-55mm f/2.8 lens, 23mm f/1.4 lens and 50-140mm f/2.8 lens.  I will also have the Fuji 1.4X tele-converter and, in a separate case, my Fuji 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6mm lens (I'm still not sure I will take this, I may end up leaving it behind). I will also take three filters and one step-up ring.  I will take a polarizing filter, as well as 6-stop and 10-stop neutral density filters.  The filters are all 77mm and one lens has a 72mm filter thread, hence the step-up ring.  I anticipate photographing small towns, harbors, seascapes, fall foliage, mountainous regions, people working at their jobs or crafts and, as I said hopefully, some wildlife.  Of course, a tripod (and monopod) will be brought and since we are traveling by automobile, space shouldn't be a factor.

When, generally, is sunrise and sunset each day?
I use The Photographer's Ephemeris.  A wonderful program I can highly recommend that you can download for free on your PC or, for a small fee, or buy as an app for your mobile device.  This allows me to see when sunrise and sunset, as well as moonrise and moonset is for any location and it gives me a Google map showing the direction of sunrise and sunset.  I find it well worth acquiring this small program.  I understand there is a small, inexpensive app that may be even better.  But since I have an Android phone and it is only available for Apple devices, I don't have it.  If you are interested, check out PhotoPills.  I hear it is excellent and very comprehensive.
What weather and humidity can be expected?
I've researched the average daily high, low and average temperatures for most of the locations through which we will travel.  I have also looked at the average number of days of rain and how much rain per month for the time period we will travel.  Average only, you mileage may vary on any particular day.
What other considerations do I need to be aware, such as the number of bags, luggage, size, weight that might restrict what I can take?
Since the two of us will be traveling in an SUV, space isn't much of an issue. But I don't want to be excessive as less is more.  I plan on taking one large suitcase for clothes, toiletries, medicine, etc.  We plan on visiting a laundromat at some time to wash clothes.  That allows one to take fewer, rather than more, clothing items.  Additionally, I will take one camera bag, one laptop bag, a tripod and a monopod.  The 100-400mm lens will go in its own bag if I take it.   I am trying to be a minimalist on this trip.  I usually don't succeed.  Too often, I take way too much stuff and never use a lot of it.  Again, learning from the past.
Is there anything I need to do before I go such as getting a permit or are there any restrictions on photography (usually with large DSLRs only) in the places I might visit?
Right now, I'm not aware of anywhere we will be going that I need to get a permit.  

I will be blogging along the way, at least three times a week, if not more.  In the past, I would blog a short version of the day's journey and activities as well as post an image or two of what we saw.  I intend to follow the same pattern, so check back.

I really look forward to taking at least two long and several short road trips each year.  To me, there is nothing quite like driving smaller roads, going through smaller cities and towns, eating at local restaurants and meeting wonderful people across this great country. Couple that with visiting some of our great national parks as well as other attractions and you have one heck of a wonderful trip.


Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

Monday, September 26, 2016

Preparing For A Long Road Trip 2016; Part II

Mt. Rainier, Washington State, U.S.A. (click to enlarge)
Nikon D200, Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 lens @ 27mm; 1/200th sec. @ f/9; ISO 100
Sometimes images just present themselves right along the roadway.
...Continuing our discussion on preparing for a photographically oriented road trip, I believe you can make the process can be easy or hard.  I prefer easy and stress-free.

There are really a couple of types of travel photography--the serious kind by the photo enthusiast and the casual vacationer who wants to make some nice photographs for memories.  Today, let's tackle some things for the casual photographer to think about before leaving.

If you are a casual photographer and just want to improve your chances of bringing home your memories, there are only really a couple of things to think about.  First, does the camera (usually a point-and-shoot pocket camera or mobile phone) have the capability to take the kind of photos you think you will be making (the previous mentioned research should give you a clue as to what to expect.)  Will the lens capture wide-angle views in crowded cityscapes without cutting off important subject matter?  Does your lens have enough telephoto capability to bring something that is far away close enough so it is not just a speck on your computer screen?  Will you want to make really close-up photographs--sometimes called macro photographs?  If you use your mobile phone as a camera, does the app you use provide you with a variety of options to make panoramas, close-ups?  My suggestion is to take your camera or mobile phone out and simulate a couple of typical scenes you might encounter during your travels.  In other words, make a dry run.

If your current camera won't do what you need, do a little research and find a good quality camera that will meet your needs.  A site, such as www.dpreview.com, has tons of camera specs and reviews as well as comments by owners.  Look at www.Amazon.comwww.bhphotovideo.com and www.Adorama.com.  Those sites are the big ones for sales and feedback.  They have lots of information from previous buyers.  I  have used all these sites myself.  
The best option might be to find a local retailer whose employees really undertand photography and look at cameras, have them explain features and pick up the cameras so you can actually get a feel for its size and how complicated the controls may be.  High quality digital cameras are relatively inexpensive when compared to the price/value/quality test, so don't hesitate to invest in one that will last you several years.  You won't regret it.

I have some good friends who are enthusiast photographers.  Three of them went to Africa a couple of years ago for a once-in-a-lifetime photo safari.  Guess what?  Two of the three took a Nikon P510 point-and-shoot camera along with their sophisticated equipment!  Why?  Because it has a lens equivalent to 24mm-1000mm lens on a 35mm system.  Wow!  Unheard of just a couple of years ago.  Small, inexpensive, high quality.  It did the job.  They were able to record things that were very far away from them.  To take a DSLR lens with that reach would be cost prohibitive and really bulky.  The point-and-shoot solved a problem their high priced equipment couldn't.  Back to tdday, the small super-zoom cameras are even better.

Will you be somewhere where you can charge the camera battery every night?  Do you need to buy an additional battery just in case?  I always travel with 4 to 5 spare batteries and an extra charger.  (What if my charger fails?) Contingencies.  Remember, I'm a planner.

How about the weather?  You can normally put a small camera into a purse or pocket to get it out of the rain or dust.  What about humidity?  When you are in an air conditioned building and go out into a very hot and humid environment, the cold surface of your camera and lens will cause moisture to condense upon them.  Not good.  Same if you are outside on a hot, humid day then go in to a cool inside environment.  Moisture is not the friend of electronics.  I suggest carrying a heavier duty plastic bag that zips shut and seals tightly.  Take an extra just in case.  Then you can put your camera in it before going out or coming in.  The camera and the air inside can warm/cool slowly so as not to condense moisture.  After a while when the air/camera inside the bag reaches the temperature of you new environment, you can take it out without worry.  You can also put the camera in the bag to protect from dust.

Take a quick ride over to friendly reatail store and buy several small, mirco-fiber lens cleaning cloths.  Before you clean your lens, blow it off with a small blower (I use Giottos Small Rocket Blower) to remove any grit, which you don't want to get rubbed into the front of the lens.  I wouldn't worry about cleaning it too often, but try to not touch it and keep it smudge-free.  A could of pieces of dust or so on the lens, in reality, won't make any difference.  A smudge from a finger might.

Memory cards.  Take extra.  You might not think you will use entire memory cards, but if you do, you will have more in your pocket.  Also, what if your card fails?  They do sometimes.  Buy only name brand.  I only use SanDisk and Lexar.  Some others may be excellent also, but I only use those two brands and I have never had a failure.

Other than those things, I suggest taking your user's manual (you should read it first, of course), as well as think about taking a small travel tripod.  Often times, it is nice to put your camera on a tripod to a) take photos when the light is really low and, b) set the camera on self-timer to take photographs of yourself.  Best advice, buy a good small tripod.  Don't waste your money on one that will not be sturdy and get the job done now and for many years into the future.

One other thing...  I suggest you set your camera on RAW plus high quality JPEG recording mode.  
RAW files, of course, give you the most versatility and most enthusiasts use the RAW recording mode.  If you are never going to make a print and only look at your images on a computer screen, you might be able to get away with a lower quality, but if you might think you may want to make prints or even an enlargement of one of your photographs for your desk or wall, go with the higher quality.   If you have any, any, desire to make larger prints, always go for the highest quality image your camera can make.  You can always reduce the size of the image, but not very successfully enlarge it if the information and detail in that file is not captured in the first place.

See.  Easy.  Not a lot to do for the casual shooter.  More next post.


Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

Friday, September 23, 2016

Preparing For A Long Road Trip 2016; Part I

Route 66, Cool Springs, Arizona (click to enlarge)
Nikon D800E, Nikon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 VR lens @ 40mm; 1/1600th sec. @ f/10; ISO 400
Its that time of the year again.  Time to set out for some travel.  ROAD TRIP!  I prefer not traveling in the summer months as there are too many people on the roads, too many people in the national parks, too many people visiting attractions and the weather is too hot in most places for me to spend a significant amount of time outside enjoying myself. Fewer people, less congestion, better weather and no stress traveling.  That seems to be an optimum formula for me nowadays.  I must be becoming a curmudgeon.  It all goes with retirement and getting older, I guess.  Next thing you know I'll be shouting, "Hey you kids—get off my lawn!"  LOL

I have written in the past what I do to prepare for a road trip, but I'll repeat much of it over the next few posts for the benefit of new readers.  I take traveling seriously and like to make the most of my time and efforts, so as with most things about my life, I prepare extensively.  I prepare through researching where I may be going as well as prepare as to what gear I anticipate I will need to take.  My general travel philosophy over the past several years has been less is more—smaller, lighter, maintain versatility while preserving excellent image quality and, most importantly, having fun!

If you are an enthusiast photographer, or just want to record your road trip for good memories, how does one prepare?  Before you even leave, how do you go about ensuring you have everything you need to successfully find, create and bring back the images that may be the only tangible items of a once-in-a-lifetime trip?  How do you avoid disaster or disappointment?

As soon as I decide I will be taking a road trip, the future journey starts rolling and rolling through my mind.  This is a subconscious process, it just starts happening.  I suppose it is from a lifetime of being a planner-type of person.  I don't do much that is last minute or which is not thoroughly thought through.  In other words, I'm not too much of a spontaneous individual.  Even weeks before I go, I start thinking about all aspects of the trip, especially photographically.  So the process starts.  Hopefully, it ends with a great trip and wonderful memories as well as great images.

Preparation is key.  I'm not talking about preparing the night before.  I'm talking about preparing earlier rather than later--weeks, even.  I've learned some lessons on not being as prepared as I had thought I was.

The end game is to bring back good images (memories), for our lives are a succession of personal stories which we want to remember as well as tell our family and friends.  Photographs help us remember and recount those stories as well as give a visual representation of events.  Also, I want to be able to travel as light and quickly as possible but take enough equipment to cover the majority of opportunities as well as not miss key images (I don't try to make sure I can capture every photographic opportunity that arises, just the vast majority of them)--and, with whole process being stress free!  Good luck!

To photographically prepare for an upcoming road trip, here is what I think about.

First, I ask myself a very basic question.  What is the primary purpose of the trip?  Is the primary purpose making photographs or traveling with family or friends with the making photographs secondary to the experience?  Answering that question puts me on one of two paths because the goals of those two types of trips are much different.


I then ask myself a series of preliminary questions:

What are my photographic goals for this trip?
What will be my photographic style be for this trip?  (all handheld, time for tripod work, anticipating any night photography, up before sunrise, etc.)
How long will I be gone?
How much time will I have to photograph?
How will I feel if something goes wrong and I lose the photos through my own negligence or some external force?

Do I need to take a laptop to edit images while gone?  Do I intend to post on this blog?
Have I researched the areas I will be traveling to know what opportunities I will encounter?
When, generally, is sunrise and sunset each day for where I'll be traveling?
What weather and humidity can be expected?

How will I travel?  By air, train, car?
What other considerations do I need to be aware, such as the number of bags, luggage, size, weight that might restrict what I can take?
Is there anything I need to do before I go such as getting a permit or are there any restrictions on photography (usually with large DSLRs only) in the places I might visit?

More later on this topic.  Again, my general photographic travel philosophy is going lighter, faster and taking less is better.  I cannot tell you how many trips I have taken and not used most of the gear I carried.  My advice is don't try to anticipate everything.  Don't take equipment and prepare for EVERY possible photograph that may present itself to you.  Its okay to miss some.  Its okay just to enjoy a scene and let the experience etch into your memory unencumbered by trying to make photographs.  You don't have to bring the kitchen sink just in case.  If you research properly, you should already know what you may list as the highlights of the areas you plan to visit.

I love exploratory travel, wandering, especially road trips.  I try to fully enjoy the trip while setting time aside for making some good images.  The process can be as easy or as stressful as you like.  I like easy.


More in my next post.

Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

Wednesday, September 21, 2016

Something I Noticed About Those Who Review Cameras

Ketchikan, Alaska, 2008 (click to enlarge)
Nikon D300, Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 lens @ 22mm; 1/500th sec. @ f/11; ISO 800
When a new model digital camera is introduced and is first tested, many, MANY reviewers and testers just gush with their words in how great everything is about this new whiz bang model. They talk about how fast the focus is, how the focus tracks everything from a speeding bullet to a golf ball, the terrific dynamic range and other camera attributes. That is normal behavior considering the camera is new and usually the reviewer is a user of that particular camera brand.  I've done it to a small degree.

However, did you ever notice that when the succeeding model is introduced a couple of years later that many of these same people now talk about the new model with the same enthusiasm and often the same words they referenced the older model?  All probably true.  But here is the difference.  The old camera now becomes just ho-hum and not wonderful anymore.  That ultra-fast focus, in hindsight, is just okay now, but the new model is faster than a rocket ship!  The old great dynamic range about which they raved is all of a sudden no longer adequate but the newly introduced model is the best thing since sliced bread when it comes to dynamic range.  The old features were fine but now it seems they think it really lacked this and that, which the new camera model now has. The old camera, about which they bragged as better than your camera, is now just old news. Old is passé but the new is great.  The cycle seems to repeat model after model. 

Funny how one's perspectives change.  Maybe, as an audience, we shouldn't believe all of the hype.

Several years ago I noticed that the camera reviews done by a nationally known photography magazine did just this.  When they tested the newest camera it was at the top of the charts and got a glowing review.  Two years later, the camera seemed to be pretty much of a dog, almost not worthy of purchasing, as if everyone who read the magazine now wanted, needed or could afford the latest high-end camera body.  The scale for acceptable kept changing so there really was no way to compare an older camera to a newer camera.  The camera that was a 9 on a scale from 1-10 is now a 4 on the same exact scale.  Hmmm.  Interesting.

I just find it interested how their perspectives and their verbiage change over time.  What was once the best camera available and none of us would ever need anything better, now is just "yesterday's news" but this new camera is unbelievable in its capabilities.  Do you think maybe they are trying to win converts or drive sales?  Maybe?  Do you think the advertisers liked these descriptions of their new cameras?

Have any of you noticed this phenomenon?  Next time you listen to some You Tube videos on camera and/or lens test or read reviews, carefully look for which words the reviewer uses, then go back and watch the same reviewer talk about the now older model and listen to what words he or she used then.

Just a casual observation...  Interesting to me.

Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

Tuesday, September 20, 2016

My Fuji X-T2 and X-T1 Light Meters Differ in Readings

The Car Ferry, Pocahontas, crossing the James River in SE Virginia near Jamestown (click to enlarge)
X-T2, 100-400mm lens @ 203.7mm; 1/500th sec. @ f/6.4; ISO 200
I would have thought that the light meters in the Fuji X-T2 would read the same as the light meter in the Fuji X-T1.  Mine don't.  Yours may.

While performing a test of any measurable EVF brightness differences between my X-T2 and my X-T1, I discovered the light meters on the two cameras gave me different readings under identical conditions.  Hmmm?  What should I make of that?

If you look at my last post, you can see how I had the testing procedure set up to have everything between the two cameras set identically.  If you missed it, you can read it here..

When I discovered the two cameras' meters gave different readings in this bright light environment, I ran some additional tests to see if that held true in environments with lower light levels.  It did.  In every test I made—bright, medium light and low light—the differences were exactly the same.

What were the differences? 

In matrix metering the difference was 1 full stop.  That is significant.  Difference in metering programming?  Could be.

In spot metering, the difference was 2/3 stop.  Less significant but noteworthy.

In average metering, the difference was  1/2 stop.  Again, noteworthy.

Consistently, the X-T2 showed metered exposures that indicated a higher shutter speed or smaller aperture was necessary than with the X-T1.  That tells me that the meter in X-T2 saw brighter conditions than the meter in the X-T1, when they were exactly the same level of luminance.

I didn't use calibrated light sources, but the tests were consistent.  Everything was equal as far as I could make it without going into a lab and setting up a highly controlled experiment.

What do you make of it?  Was this particular test an anomaly?  I don't make anything of it yet.  I use the histogram to set my exposures so I don't necessarily rely on what the light meter is showing me.  But as I use this new camera I will assess if I believe everything is working and calibrated as it should be.  I'll let you know if I find anything else interesting.

Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

Monday, September 19, 2016

Fuji X-T2 "Wide Tracking" Focus Capability Tested

Click to enlarge all of these images
I continue to experiment with my Fuji X-T2, using it to fully understand its capabilities. As I've written in the past, to achieve the images you want, you have to fully understand your gear, what it does well and the things it won't do very well.

Since I had what I would call a successful series of preliminary tests utilizing the Fuji X-T2's Zone Focusing tracking capability, I decided to try the other kind of tracking available in the X-T2—Wide Tracking, as Fuji calls it.

Again, in a very short, down and dirty test, not the be all to end all, and since I was near the railroad mainline, I thought I would try it on one of the local Amtrak passenger trains as it came into town at 79 mph (127 kph).

I set my camera to my standard settings for this type of photography: 1/1600th sec. @ f/8 to fully stop the motion of the front of the locomotive.  I mounted my 16-55mm f/2.8 lens on the X-T2.  I set the burst speed to 5 fps, which is my normal setting for photographing trains.  Since the day was heavily overcast I knew I would have to use a relatively high ISO.  In this case, ISO 2500.  The focal length was set to about 35mm (35.3mm), or about 50mm equivalent for a 35mm camera.  In other words, a pretty normal perspective.  

(As an aside, at ISO 2500, I was very pleased with the image quality and the lack of digital noise.)

I set the menu settings for single point, continuous and to wide tracking.  I had the tracking custom setting set to #1, which is the auto mode.  As I waited for the train, I drew the camera to my eye to determine composition, then I moved the single focusing point to the right side of the frame, where the train would come into the frame.  I waited.

As the train approached, I raised the camera, placed the single point on the front of the locomotive (remember the engine has at least 2,  and in this case 4, very bright headlights, which can really fool an autofocusing system) and squeezed my shutter button.  The camera fired off 6 frames before the train passed.  As the train moved across my viewfinder, the focusing mechanism tracked it perfectly across until the train passed out the left side of the frame.

Upon looking at the frames in Lightroom at 100%, every frame is perfectly focused and what I would call tack sharp.  Perfect!  I love it!

This is only one test.  But it is not an easy test.  Again, this Fuji X-T2 has amazed me with its focusing and tracking capabilities.  More in the future.

Here are the images in sequence.


















Thank you Fuji! It just gets better and better!

Thanks for looking. Enjoy!

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

Is the Fuji X-T2's EVF Brighter Than The X-T1's? I Tested Them

The Linda J and Andrea D, Poquoson, Virginia (click to enlarge)
Fuji X-T2, 16-55mm f/2.8 lens @ 55mm; 1/250th sec. @ f/8; ISO 200
I was asked my thoughts on the differences between the electronic viewfinders (EVF) in the new X-T2 versus the X-T1.  Since I now own both cameras, I set out to see what differences I could see and measure.  Is there a visual or measurable difference between the two EVFs?  Read on.

First, I would say that both cameras EVFs are excellent and state of the art.  I have no complaints with either.  I have now come to really enjoy using an EVF and have no desire to go back to an optical viewfinder, which has been a mainstay for me for the past 46 years.

From my readings of websites and viewing of You Tube video reviews of pre-production X-T2 cameras, I was under the impression that the X-T2's EVF was twice as bright as the X-T1's.  Is that accurate or did I (and others) misinterpret what was published leading up to the new cameras release.

In the information provided by Fujifilm, they state (see below ***) that "With the maximum brightness doubled from previous models, the viewfinder features the Automatic Brightness Adjustment function so that it is easy to see even in intense backlighting."  You have to read that sentence carefully to understand exactly what they are saying.

When I initially read that statement, and when I read what had been written and repeated on the internet, I was of the understanding that the X-T2's EVF was twice as bright as the X-T1's. That is not what Fuji is stating, under normal viewing conditions.  It is my fault for not carefully reading what was printed and for assuming what I had heard was correct.  What Fuji is saying is that when you turn up the menu setting for "EVF BRIGHTNESS" to its highest setting, it is twice as bright as the highest setting in the X-T1 — or — the camera can adjust the brightness of the EVF automatically, again to a level twice as bright as the EVF in the X-T1.  Does that make a difference to you?  It may or may not.

If you normally use the highest brightness setting for your EVF it will make a difference. The EVF will be twice as bright.  If you have your "EVF BRIGHTNESS" menu setting set for "MANUAL" and you have the brightness set for any other level other than its brightest (as most of us have it set at 0 or near 0), it won't.  If you have your EVF menu setting set for "AUTOMATIC" brightness, it will.  Personally,  I have my EVF menu setting set for "MANUAL" so I can see the brightening and darkening of my image as accurately as possible—one of the most important and desirable features of an EVF.  Again, Fuji's statement refers to the ability of the X-T2's EVF, set at its brightest level, to be twice as bright at the X-T1's EVF set at its brightest level.

The EVF brightness in the X-T1 can be adjusted from -2 to +2.  The EVF in the X-T2 can be adjusted between -5 and +5.  That is where the difference in brightness come into effect. 

However, I wanted to test if the brightness at any particular EVF BRIGHTNESS setting was different in one camera versus the other.  Here is what I did.

I tried to determine, as best I could, any measurable differences in the two EVFs with all conditions between the two cameras and attached lenses as equal as possible. I set up both cameras on tripods side-by-side.  Same height, same light, bubble levels centered and pointed at the same subject from the same distance.  In this case my garage door in bright sunlight with no clouds in the sky.   A plain, solid surface in bright daylight.

The cameras were within 6 inches of each other, both set on ISO 200, aperture priority mode, exposure compensation set to 0, metering set to spot.  Both cameras had fully charged batteries.  The focusing mechanism was set to single point, "S", at its smallest size.  I made sure both cameras focusing points were pointed at the exact same spot on the door.  Both cameras' "EVF BRIGHTNESS" menu controls were set to "0."  The X-T2, however, was set to "BOOST" mode, which is not available in the X-T1.  In other words, everything about the cameras was identical, except for the boost setting.

On the X-T1, I mounted the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens.  On the X-T2, I mounted the 16-55mm f/2.8 lens.  I set both lenses for 35mm focal length—mid-range so there wasn't any potential degradation of light at either of the zoom lenses' extremes.  I ran the tests with the each lens on each camera so as to take any lens light transmission variable out of the equation.  I also ran the test at several different apertures so as to take any particular aperture light transmission variable out of the equation, not that I was measuring exposure.  Just trying to make sure all variables are removed.

I asked myself, how can I measure the level of light transmission through the EVF? Hmmm. What measures light?  A lightmeter!  Do I have a lightmeter I could use to measure the light transmitted through the two cameras EVFs?  Yes.  

What I came up with was to use my Soligor 1 degree spot meter that had been professionally calibrated for accurate color response as well as linear measurement.  (The now defunct Zone VI studios, run by photographer, teacher and author Fred Picker (now deceased), calibrated the meter.  Some of you may be familiar with the former Zone VI, of Putney, VT. They manufactured and sold large format photography gear as well as highly engineered darkroom equipment. They also provided photographic education and published information geared toward the traditional large format black and white photographer who practiced in the tradition of the Zone System.  Picker was into precision and one of the services Zone VI offered was to calibrate your 1 degree spot meter if you sent it to them.  I did and used that meter extensively when I shot 4" X 5" cameras with black and white film for many years.) I don't know if the method I used is totally valid, but it was the best I could come up with to evaluate brightness differences between the two EVFs.

In practical application, the method I used was to place the lens of the light meter as close to the viewfinder window on the back of the camera as I could (it nestled nicely within the eye cup), then wrap my fingers and palm around it the junction so as to block out any extraneous light.  If nothing else, both EVFs would be measured exactly the same manner.

I made 10 measurements of EVF brightness on each camera with each lens.  I used the apertures of f/4, f/5.6, f/8 and f/11.  The results were consistent in every test.  What I found was that at any setting, with either lens, the X-T2's EVF was approximately 1/2 EV brighter than the X-T1's.  That is 1/2 stop brighter for any who are not familiar with EVs (exposure values).  

As far as the X-T2's EVF being any larger than the X-T1's?  They look about the same to me.  If there is a difference when looking through the viewfinder, it is minimal.  The published Fuji material (below) describes them almost identically.  I believe they are the same.

I guess I could have conducted even more detailed assessments with the EVF BRIGHTNESS set at the various settings, but i had  no need to do so.

So there you have it.  The viewfinder of the X-T2 is capable of twice the brightness than the viewfinder of the X-T1, however, when all settings are identical, my X-T2's viewfinder is 1/2 stop brighter than the viewfinder on my X-T1.  Yours may differ.   

_____________________________________________________________________________
The information below was copied directly from Fujifilm's website.  They are the author's and these statements were taken from their publicly released press documents.  If you want to go to their website to read it directly, you can find the X-T2 page here. and the X-T1 page here.

X-T2

0.5 inch approx. 2.36 millions dots OLED Color Viewfinder Coverage of viewing area vs. capturing area: approx. 100%
Eyepoint: approx. 23mm (from the rear end of the camera's eyepiece) Diopter adjustment: -4~+2m-1
Magnification: 0.77x with 50mm lens (35mm equivalent) at infinity and diopter set to -1.0m-1
Diagonal angle of view: approx. 38° (Horizontal angle of view: approx. 31° )
Built-in eye sensor

X-T1

0.5-in., approx. 2.360K-dot OLED color viewfinder
Coverage of viewing area vs. capturing area : approx. 100%
Eye point : approx. 23mm (from the rear end of the camera's eyepiece)
Diopter adjustment : -4m-1 to +2m-1
Magnification : 0.77x with 50mm lens (35mm format equivalent) at infinity and diopter set to - 1.0m-1
Diagonal angle of view : approx. 38° (Horizontal angle of view : approx. 31°)
Built-in eye sensor

***The following can be found on Fujifilm's website here.

3. Electronic viewfinder that has evolved to continue tracking moving subjects
  • The X-T2's 2.36-million-dot high-resolution organic EL electronic viewfinder has the magnification ratio of 0.77x and maintains the display time lag of just 0.005 seconds. With the maximum brightness doubled from previous models, the viewfinder features the Automatic Brightness Adjustment function so that it is easy to see even in intense backlighting. It has improved resolution in the Live View mode, and eliminates moiré or false colors to enable focusing with greater accuracy.
  • The EVF refreshes at a rate of 60fps, or as high as 100fps in the Boost mode to deliver smooth display of movements. It can continue displaying a moving subject without interruption. The fast rate of refresh is maintained even in low light for easy framing during night shooting.
  • The X-T2's blackout time is less than half of that of the X-T1 due to the parallel processing of Live View display and fast shutter charging. This has enabled continuous shooting of 5fps in Live View, giving users the ability to easily continue tracking a moving subject.


Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

Friday, September 16, 2016

The Fuji X-T2; Still Has That "Fuji Look"

Layers; Orange to Green to Blue to White
Fuji X-T2, Fuji 50-140mm f/2.8 lens @ 56.3mm; 1/80th sec. @ f/8; ISO 200 (click to enlarge)
Joyfully, I have been continuing to photograph with my new Fuji X-T2.  It is somewhat different than the X-T1 in it has more menu options (all laid out in a very logical and easily found way) as well as more refined and advanced capabilities.  The more I use it, the more I am liking it.  I only have a couple of niggles but they are so small that they are really not a criticism nor complaint.  It seems this particular camera is pressing all the right buttons for me.

Right now the three features I like best (not prioritized) are the "joystick" as it is now commonly referred, which allows me to easily and quickly and move my focus point. Second is the "My Menu" feature that allows me to add and immediately get to items that I would want to change without having to delve deep into the menu.  Third, is the superior focusing mechanism, both continuous tracking and single.

I wanted to post this image as an example of what I call the "Fuji look."  Many speak of it.  What is the Fuji look?  I can't explain it.  It probably is a bit different for each photographer, but for me it is an intangible quality, quite nuanced, that is found in images I make with my Fuji cameras that is pleasing to my eye but cannot adequately be described in words.  One of the reasons I have now totally switched to Fuji cameras is for that "look" I get in my images.  As they say, you'll know it when you see it.

I continue to happily use my new camera and will have further comments in the future...

Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

The Fuji X-T2 Has Arrived; It Is Even Better Than I Expected

All images in this post were made using the new Fuji X-T2 and Fuji lenses (click to enlarge)
In case you don't want to read through this entire post of my first use and initial comments about the Fuji X-T2, my recommendation is that if you have this camera, don't let anyone pry it out of your hands.  If you don't have it, go to your computer and order it today.  You won't be sorry!  Yes, it is that good!  If this peaks your interest, read on.

My brand spanking new Fuji X-T2 arrived by way of UPS late Monday afternoon.  After pre-ordering it on the day it was announced, July 7th, I was fortunate to have been one of the lucky ones to be included in the first batch shipped by B and H Photo.  Along with the X-T2, I ordered the new Power Booster Grip VPB-X-T2, two additional batteries (the new "S" version) and, since I only owned one high speed UHS II SDXC card, I ordered one of those as well.

The first thing I noticed is the packaging of the camera.  A box within a box.  Very nicely done. The presentation had a touch of class and elegance.  Everything well packed to keep it all safe during shipping.  Nice but in what I was truly interested was inside. Finally, the camera was revealed and, not strangely, it looked almost identical to the X-T1.  Upon picking it up, it was just a little bigger, but I think better.  I don't have really large hands, but I do like to be able to securely and comfortably grip my camera bodies. Almost all digital cameras today are great tools capable of producing excellent images. To me, what can make or break a camera and what can distinguish it from others, is how it feels in one's hands.  This camera feels right to me.
Click to enlarge

The X-T2 really is an attractive camera and felt very solid when first picking it up.  So far I like what I see.  I actually sat at my kitchen table looking at the engineering and craftsmanship that has gone into this camera and admired it.  Not only from a visual standpoint, but I admire how the engineers put everything together as a complete package.  From past experience, i think the X-T2 will become one of those cameras that you just want to pick up and use.  The X-T1 is that way and the X-T2 feels even better. But how much of an improvement will be had over the X-T1.

The first thing I did was fully charge the batteries.  While charging, I spent some time with the User's Manual as there are things about this camera that are different when compared to the X-T1.  There are some minor control differences and some additional features.  I needed to know and understand those differences before I took the "2" out for a shakedown.

After the batteries were fully charged, I powered up the X-T2 and went about going through all of the setup menus, one by one.  I like the menu system.  Even though it is different from the X-T1's, it is very easy to use and one can easily find whatever setting one needs without having to work at it.  I should not be a pain in the #%& to use a camera's menu.  This one is easy.  Great job Fuji!  As I said the menus are different from the X-T1 but I set the camera up almost identically to my X-T1, since I was very familiar and comfortable with the way I had it set up.  Very easily done.  No surprises.  However, some nice additional functions and options that weren't previously available.  I like the menu option to set one's most used menu items so they are first to appear when pressing the "Okay/Enter" button.  One thing that I have always done is change the file names from my cameras' default to a name that I can associate with a specific camera for future reference.  Just something I do, not necessary, but it helps me identify a particular image with a particular camera if the EXIF data is not available.  I'm happy that I could do this, but I'm not pleased that I could not directly add my copyright to the files in camera. That, too, is important to me since I shoot stock and I think an oversight.  If posting an image before importing into Lightroom, there is no indication of my copyright status and no way for me to apply my copyright directly to the image files.  Certainly a minor thing.
click to enlarge

After setting the camera the way I wanted it, I stepped outside to make a couple of exposures just to ensure it worked as it should.  It did, as expected from Fuji.  I then put the batteries in the grip, attached it, then powered the camera up in regular and boost mode to ensure that, too, was working.  Not only is the EVF a bit better than the X-T1's, but when panning it was "almost" like looking through an optical viewfinder.  Almost, but not quite, but better than any EVF I've ever tried.  After this initial test, I put the camera back down and went back to reading the User's Manual.  Self-torture!  I would wait until Tuesday morning to take it out to initially judge any differences in focus lock-on speed, focus tracking accuracy, dynamic range, color reproduction, etc.

I'm now writing the bulk of this post on Tuesday afternoon.  I took the X-T2 out this morning, photographed a variety of subjects, both man-made, nature, still, moving slowly, moving fast and of a variety of subjects.  In total, I made 387 images shooting on RAW plus JPEG Fine.  I wanted to assess the JPEG engine as well as the RAW engine.
Now back in Lightroom and looking at my images I have a few comments.  I can't be definitive about my opinions in this post since I have only used it one day but I don't suspect, from my initial usage, that many of my comments will change in the future. So, take what I am saying with that in mind—these are initial thoughts and impressions based upon one day of use.

Fuji 100-400mm lens with the Fuji 1.4X converter shot wide open and handheld (click to enlarge)

First of all, the Fuji X-T2 has so far exceeded my expectations.  How so?  Focus speed and focus tracking.  It is much faster and more accurate than my X-T1 and faster and more accurate than I expected it would be.  I would put it right up there with my Nikon D810, which was the best camera I had ever owned, up until now.  One reads raves from those who had access to the camera pre-release, many of them being Fuji X photographers, but I don't think they were exaggerating or misleading when they told us how much better the continuous focus is.  Additionally, the single focus is almost instantaneous.  Its as fast as any camera I've owned.

Additionally, the image files, when viewed at 100% are much better.  Not only do they have more resolution, but that dreaded foliage smearing issue seems to be totally gone! I'll have an image or two to show you.

Taking the camera out to make real images was easy.  If you are familiar with the X-T1, you won't have any problems finding your way around this camera.  That is nice.

Let's talk about my impressions of use and the resulting images.

Dynamic Range and Image Quality

The image quality is excellent.  No doubt about it to me.  I'm picky and the images I made from this initial outing fully meet my needs.  I am very pleased to have 24mp as opposed to 16.  As I have written many times, 24mp is my sweet spot for stock photography.  It gives me a sufficiently large file so the file can be licensed for many more purposes than can a small file. Additionally, the extra pixels gives me some breathing room for cropping when absolutely necessary or straightening an horizon and still have lots of meat in the files.  These are "meaty" files.  I'll coin that term if someone already hasn't.

The color and that abstract "Fuji" quality is still there.  Thank goodness.  My sense is the look of the image files, when compared to the image files shot with my X-T1, are almost identical.  The resolution is higher but that esoteric quality we all love from Fuji files is intact.  The JPEG files look pretty much like the JPEG files from the X-T1.  In other words, as good as the RAW files in most instances and usable for most everything.  I have not done any black and white conversions from RAW or black and white JPEGS yet, but I will before the end of the week. 

I found the dynamic range to equal or exceed that of the X-T1.  I took some images of bright white boats in direct early morning sun with heavy shadows.  I also took some images of a backlit locomotive coming directly at me.  I was able to easily tone down the whites to reveal detail in the wood of the boats as well as bring up the shadows sufficiently to reveal the amount of detail I find pleasing.  Without any direct measurement, it "seems" to me this sensor has a bit more dynamic range than the X-T1.

Directly back lit by sun, as it came out of the camera (click to enlarge)

The auto white balance, as with my X-T1 seems to come in just a bit on the blue side.  I need to warm them up when editing them.  But that is a very subjective thing.  They might be just fine as is for you.

Edited in Lightroom CC 2015 (click to enlarge)
I could easily pull the detail from the shadows and it is focused perfectly
see details of conditions in narrative
My images, overall, are very, very pleasing.  I'm a very happy photographic camper with the image quality from this camera.

Focus Lock-on and Focus Tracking 

I already made a few comments above but I am really pleased with how fast the camera locks on focus and how well it tracks.  

For one test, I photographed my standard fast moving man-made subject, an Amtrak train coming almost directly at me at 79 mph (127 kph).  What makes this test even harder to achieve success is that the bright headlights on the front of the locomotive makes it very difficult for any camera to find the front of the engine and lock on.  I put the X-T2 on 8 fps, continuous autofocus, set the continuous focus custom tracking to #4 and set the focusing to zone with 9 focusing points active.  I am happy to say the 17 of the 18 shots I made were dead on in focus when looking at them in Lightroom at 100%.  The 9th shot, right in the middle of the sequence, was just a tiny bit soft.  Usable, but not perfectly focused.  All images before and after were tack sharp.  Keep in mind as well that I was panning and zooming as I was photographing.  That is a nice improvement over the X-T1. 

Additionally, I photographed a fully backlit freight train coming from the opposite direction at about 50 mph (80 kph).  See above.  All 16 images were tack sharp.  So, 50 mph, coming straight at me, back lit with the front being very dark on a bright sunny day, four bright headlights trying to fool the focusing mechanism, AND I was panning, moving the focus points from left to right and zooming out all at the same time!  All are tack sharp at 100% in Lightroom. Amazing to me.  I've included a shot directly out of the camera and a corrected one to show the difference.

click to enlarge
I photographed some flying gulls as they flew past me, landed in the water toward me and flew away from me.  The bird images were not as successful as the trains but most of that has to do with operator error.  First, I didn't have the shutter speed set high enough to entirely freeze motion.  That is just a stupid mistake on my part.  Second, not being an accomplished or practiced BIF (birds in flight) photographer, I had problems keeping a single bird within the 9 focus points I had enabled.  When I did keep the bird in the block of points, the focus locked on and kept the bird in focus.  I need to try 25 points in the future as I believe that larger square will bring more success.  From what I can determine in critically looking at the BIF images is that most are in focus but show slight motion making them appear out of focus.  The camera did well but I didn't.  This all being said, I don't think this camera is optimal for BIF photography, but it is every bit as good as my Nikon D810 for the same kinds of photography.  It is much better than before but not quite there yet to replace the "big guns" like the Nikon D5 or Canon 1 DX II.  But it is not designed to replace them.  

I experimented with the custom focus tracking settings but need to do much more experimenting before commenting on this new ability.

One comment that I need to further explore as well.  For moving subjects, I think that the number of focusing points selected in zone/continuous focus has to be set appropriately to maximize success.  In my initial judgment, the train shots were set probably correctly at 9 points since the front of the train is so large  It is easy to keep the subject within the zone but at 9 points, I think the shots for the birds would have been more successful if I would have set the camera to 25 points.  That is user error, not equipment failure.  As I said, I need to further explore these settings over time and practice more.

Focus Peaking 

I don't often use focus peaking in the X-T1 as too much of the frame "lights up," so to speak.  I typically use the Standard magnified assist mode.  But trying it today with the X-T2, it seemed better.  It seemed as though the focus peaking was more specific.  I don't know if this will hold true, but it seemed as though it is now better than it was.  I'll keep trying it in different circumstances.

Lightroom 

I was surprised that the RAW images were readable in Lightroom CC 2015!  The camera just was released last week.  Evidently, either Fuji had provided Adobe with the file structure or these RAW files are exactly the same as the X-PRO-2.  I suspect the latter is correct.  My image files look terrific in LR.  The ones I've posted here were not sharpened using the tried and true method setting the Detail slider at 100%.  I don't think we need to do that anymore.  I think they sharpen just fine using the same formula you would use in non-X-Trans sensored cameras.  I'm not sure what is different, but the detail in the foliage is excellent.  None of those artifacts or smearing I saw a year or two ago.  That makes me very happy!  Look at the 100% image of the green trees that is posted with this narrative.

Foliage with very fine detail (click to enlarge)

I think the Fuji photographic community needs to re-visit the sharpening recommendations for these new X-Trans sensors.  I really think there has been a substantial change in the sensor technology and firmware as well as the work done by Adobe.

EVF 

The EVF is larger and brighter than the one in the X-T1 and we know that EVF was pretty darn good to begin with.  This one is better.  When panning, there was no EVF lag that I could notice.  The EVF is bright and, in boost mode, is almost as good as using an pentaprism with an optical viewfinder.  I have absolutely no complaints.  I don't see myself going back to an optical viewfinder in the future.  I have come to really like an EVF and very much appreciate what extra capabilities it brings to me as a photographer.

I purposely set my high speed continuous burst mode for 8 fps.  Why?  I wanted to be able to have the viewfinder not black out so I could track my moving subjects.  Although it is not quite as good as an optical viewfinder, it is very good.  At 8 fps, I could easily track my subjects and have minimal viewfinder blackout.  Very minimal and very usable.  I have been waiting for an EVF with this ability.

Battery Life 

I shot with the grip and the three batteries.  After about 800 RAW plus JPEG exposures, one battery is down about a third.  The other two indicate they are full.  No complaints.
Closer image of fine detailed foliage (click to enlarge)

Booster Grip 

I didn't have a grip for the X-T1.  I'm not big on added bulk to my camera body.  However, I bought the booster grip so I could take advantage of the "boost mode."  I'm glad I did.  I won't use it all the time, but anytime I'm doing wildlife photography or railroad photography, or need the extra capabilities that come with using the grip in boost mode, I will screw it on the camera body.  I will say it very much changes the dynamics of how I hold the camera.  The extra weight will take some time to get used to.
100% crop from above.  Not smeared foliage; fine detail delineated perfectly (click to enlarge)

Buttons and Controls 

The push buttons are better than the ones on the X-T1, except for the AE-L button.  I found it didn't have enough height so I could easily find it and use it with my face pressed to the camera.  The four-way control buttons are raised more and have a definite click when pushing.  Most buttons are in very similar positions as in the previous camera so there is very little to get used to.  I haven't decided yet how I will program the 8 programmable buttons, but there is plenty of time for that.  Same with the Q-Menu.  I will reprogram it in the same fashion as I did with the X-T1.  I was very satisfied with the options available to us as photographers for the buttons and Q-Menu.  Thank you again Fuji.

One improvement that I appreciate is that I noticed it is harder to rotate the drive dial than on the X-T1.  I know I have accidentally moved the setting on the drive dial more than one time in the past.  The X-T2's drive dial has much more resistance and won't so easily be moved unintentionally.  

Did I mention the focus point control lever?  As I call it, the "joystick?"  Lovely, lovely, lovely.  Don't ever take it away from me.  Perfect for what I do.








Sequence of follow focusing on incoming gull; each of these is about 35% of the full frame (click to enlarge)
I'm not really good at this type of photography but I will practice in the future.
The Intangibles 

What I mean by this is just the haptics, how it feels in my hands, ease of use, layout and operation of the controls, the overall philosophy of engineering of the body and pleasure I get when using this camera. Very similar to the X-T1, my initial feeling is that this camera just feels good in my hands, gives me the features I need, allows me to manipulate the controls easily so there is no searching and fumbling and, I know I just received it a couple of days ago, but it makes me want to use it even over my X-T1.

Again, thank you Fuji!  

We have to remember that the camera body is only 1/3 of the equation for excellence in photography. The other two-thirds of the equation are the lenses and the photographer him or herself.  As photographers we would not have the opportunity to rave about a camera body if it weren't for great lenses to attach to it.  Luckily, Fuji has given us great lenses to attach to, what I predict, will be a wildly successful and judged milestone/great/legendary camera body.  That leaves the final result up to us.  No excuses with this camera and Fuji lenses.  If you have bad images, it is all on you!

Several weeks ago, I sold my beloved Nikon D810 and all of my full frame Nikon lenses.  I had decided that Fuji was now meeting my photographic needs 95% or better of the time. After all, it is all about the final images.  That's the bottom line. With the new X-T2, I'm convinced already that I won't be missing anything by not having my Nikon gear.  Not even for landscapes.  The 24mp resolution and resulting overall image quality engineered by Fuji, I'm already convinced, will fully meet my needs for the foreseeable future. Seriously.

I'm sure I'll be posting more images from this camera as well as refining and expanding on my comments in this post.  Again, let me remind you that these comments so far are pretty glowing but I suspect I will find something that aggravates me and I'll be sure to tell you about how it could be improved.

Thanks for looking. Enjoy! 

Dennis A. Mook 

All content on this blog is © 2013-2016 Dennis A. Mook. All Rights Reserved. Feel free to point to this blog from your website with full attribution. Permission may be granted for commercial use. Please contact Mr. Mook to discuss permission to reproduce the blog posts and/or images.